Edit ModuleShow Tags

Review: Piccolo


Published:

The difference between Piccolo and every other restaurant in Minnesota can be more or less summed up in two words: jellied celeriac. Jellied celeriac, of course, sounds like the sort of food that would be meted out as punishment to heroic young orphans in a Lemony Snicket book—not like a preparation that enchants the senses and engages the intellect. But at Piccolo, the new restaurant of celebrated Minneapolis chef Doug Flicker, jellied celeriac is a dish that does just that.

First, the senses: This particular celeriac arrives at the table in a single slice, the ghostly, subterranean-pale segments of the root arranged like ivory piano keys in a sunbeam of sparkling jelly. On one side lies an open-rose swirl of Speck dell’ Alto Adige, the intense prosciutto-like ham from northern Italy; on the other, a bit of allspice-touched apple butter. Take a forkful of this jellied celeriac and it tastes open and light, like a Midwestern kitchen garden, though if you pair it with the speck, it suddenly becomes European, reminiscent of Michelin-starred cooking of the most elevated hotels. And then, if you pair it with the simple apple butter, the dish becomes American again: The hearty, homey, licorice notes of the celeriac suddenly shine through, making you wonder why jellied celeriac isn’t as popular as baloney sandwiches!

Now, for the intellect: This jellied celeriac announces the return of Flicker, formerly of Auriga, and before that a top cook at D’Amico Cucina and the Loring Café. It also functions as the rough equivalent of road flares in announcing that this is the restaurant of a chef who has stopped cooking for the madding crowd, and now cooks for himself —as well as the two- or three-dozen people who can fit into this vest-pocket-sized restaurant.

For the rest of this review, please see Minnesota Monthly's April 2010 issue featuring "Small Wonder."

Edit ModuleShow Tags

About This Blog

Minnesota Monthly's Taste Blog answers your restaurant and dining questions, dishes on latest discoveries, reflects on breaking news, and generally brings the plate to the page with a skilled crew of experts: Learn more about the Taste bloggers.

Have a food-related question? Email rhutton@mnmo.com

Edit ModuleShow Tags
Edit ModuleShow Tags

More »Taste Blog

VOTE: Girl Scouts Team Up with Hi-Lo Diner

Girl Scout cookie pies, donuts, and shakes—and you choose the local troop to get the sale

Pepito’s to Become El Burrito Minneapolis

The Pepito’s/Parkway Theater combo is sold to local entrepreneurs who have a restaurant tenant and theater remodeling plans.

James Beard Semifinalists Are Cheaper by the Dozen

Ten chefs and two restaurants were named to the 2018 James Beard Award semifinalist list

Banana Pudding Pie Recipe

Make some new sweet memories with a retro dessert

Bonterra Vineyards and the Future of Organic Farming

Learn how Bonterra Organic Vineyards set the standard for organic winemaking, then sample Bonterra at this year's Food & Wine Experience March 3-4, 2018

10 Best Friday Fish Fries for Lent

Christian or not, get your fried fish here around the Twin Cities

3 Things to Eat This Week: Valentine's Edition

If you forgot to make reservations for Valentine's Day week, you're not too late—these, ahem, romantic spots will still have you

Kimchi and Gruyère Pizza Recipe

Step up your pizza game with outside-the-box homemade pie

Great Breakfast with Great Coffee

Stellar food, top-tier coffee—at these Twin Cities restaurants
Edit ModuleShow Tags
Edit ModuleShow Tags