Review: Bar La Grassa



Published:

Before taping a local television show a few weeks ago, I was in the green room with Melissa Gilbert, former television Little House on the Prairie star and recent musical Little House on the Prairie star. I was busy wishing I had worn different sunglasses and eyeing her mink-y iPhone case and wondering if such a thing was useful when the conversation turned to restaurants. “Have you been to Bar La Grassa yet?” she asked. “No,” I lied.

I often lie about visiting restaurants when I’m in the middle of reviewing them. You never know who’s going to talk to whom—or about what! Or when.… “You have to go!” she cried out, theatrically. (Incidentally, most people in green rooms are doing one of three things: crying out theatrically, muttering furtively into cell phones, or wishing they had worn different sunglasses.) I asked why.

“It’s simply wonderful!” she said.

“What did you have that was wonderful?” I demanded, trying not to betray that I had, in fact, been there. “The burrata with chile oil!” she cried out. “Really?”—I hoped I wasn’t making a face—“What else?” “The lobster with soft eggs.” I had to give her that, but pressed: “What else?” At which point, she was called away, and I was left to consider the central dilemma of my professional life: What was delicious at Bar La Grassa? Besides the soft eggs and the gnocchi? Really, what?

Bar La Grassa is the hotly anticipated second venture of Isaac Becker . . .

For the rest of this review, read "Star Underperformer."

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