Edit ModuleShow Tags

Is Chef Jim Kyndberg the Most Underrated Chef in the Twin Cities?


firelake, radisson, minneapolis
Photo by FireLake

I could make a case for it. Jim Kyndberg was a critical darling during his time as chef and owner at Bayport Cookery. His morel festival was legendary. Then in April 2010 he shut down the Bayport and went to Kaskaid to run the culinary operations for Crave.

Did people decide he was a sell-out? A “corporate chef”—so not cool? I’m not sure. He left Crave after two years, and since October 2012 he’s been at the Radisson working as the executive chef for FireLake in downtown Minneapolis.

Admittedly, before the Radisson became the Radisson Blu, and before FireLake got a massive remodel, it wasn’t the most welcoming place in town.

But now it’s beautiful! And Jim is still Jim! He’s an incredible chef, and doing great things. I was just part of a preview dinner for the new spring menu he held with some local Instagrammers.

firelake, minneapolis, jim kyndberg
Photo by Jason DeRusha

The Yukon gold potato soup with smoked trout, fresh dill, and chive oil is absolutely beautiful, and the trout was perfect with that creamy potato and the counterpoint of chive.

Bison bone marrow has become a hallmark of FireLake at Mall of America and downtown: it’s marrow topped with oxtail ragu, shaved fennel and radish. It’s one of the best versions of marrow I’ve tried.

But his lamb trio was a show-stopper: rotisserie lamb shoulder, barbeque lamb rib, and grilled lamb chop. Seek it out.

FireLake is part of a change I’ve been watching closely in town: our hotel restaurants are getting quite good. Marin is an excellent, yet under-attended restaurant in the Le Meridien Chambers hotel. Cedar + Stone is new and extremely promising in the JW Marriott at Mall of America. Cosmos is reinvigorated at the Loews Hotel thanks to a great local chef.

Quality hotel restaurants is a sign of a world-class city, so it’s about time our places step up to that level. And chef Jim Kyndberg is part of the process.

FireLake Grill House & Cocktail Bar, 31 S. Seventh St., Minneapolis, 612-216-3473, firelakerestaurant.com

Edit ModuleShow Tags

About This Blog

Minnesota Monthly's Taste Blog answers your restaurant and dining questions, dishes on latest discoveries, reflects on breaking news, and generally brings the plate to the page with a skilled crew of experts: Learn more about the Taste bloggers.

Have a food-related question? Email rhutton@mnmo.com

Edit ModuleShow Tags
Edit ModuleShow Tags

More »Taste Blog

Oatmeal Irish Soda Bread Recipe

Fresh, homemade bread is faster and easier than you think with dough that mixes in five minutes and needs no time to rise

Hello Pizza Turns 5, Ann Kim Short-listed for James Beard Award

Hello Pizza might have middle-child syndrome next to Ann Kim's other pizza shops—but this is what makes it worth revisiting

2018 James Beard Award Finalists

Minnesota chefs stay prominent in the James Beard shortlist

Brews for Good

Guinness is donating $1 to charity for each adult that dons a ‘stache and shares on social media now through March 31, 2018

3 Reasons to Brunch This Weekend

Elegant N/A drinks, outstanding oeufs, and the best of ’80s hair rock this weekend

Blueberry-Walnut Squares Recipe

Enjoy a double-dose of antioxidants with walnuts and blueberries in this treat

Oscar Party Appetizers

Elevate your table with a trio of jazzed up party bites for a win in the best supporting snacks category

Exploring Washington Wines

Sample and discover delicious wines from our country’s second-largest wine-producing area at the Food & Wine Experience March 3 and 4

27 Best Twin Cities Restaurants For Wine

From big-name wine experts to surprising hidden gems, here's where you can always get a glass of great wine
Edit ModuleShow Tags
Edit ModuleShow Tags