Edit ModuleShow Tags

DeRusha Eats: Icehouse Restaurant—Worth the Wait


I got caught in a hailstorm on the way to lunch at Icehouse, the new live music restaurant by the team behind Be'wiched Deli. There was something poetic about having to pull over so my car could get slammed by ice chunks, en route to a building that used to be home to an ice manufacturer. (Or perhaps it was orchestrated by chef/owner Matt Bickford as revenge, for me writing about the delays in getting Icehouse open.)

Either way, Icehouse was worth the wait, for its magnificent design, food, and service. At least when lunch is concerned—you'll have to wait for the magazine to come out for a full review from Rachel.

No reason to wait any longer to get over there for lunch though. Its counter service deli is similar to Be'wiched. Gourmet sandwiches with every element made in-house—they cure the meats, they bake the breads.

I know there have been mixed reviews on the pork belly banh mi, but I loved it. Pork belly, broken-up meatballs, and pate served on a croissant (shown above). So rich, creamy, meaty, and delicious ($10).

On the flip-side of the flavor spectrum, we also loved the Cured Salmon & Avocado sandwich—bright, crisp, acidy—just a lovely sandwich ($9.50).

salmon sandwich

Looking for something more basic? You can't go wrong with the Ham & Taleggio sandwich ($8.50). Nothing fancy, just a perfect ham and cheese.

ham and cheese sandwich

The greek salad is unlike any greek salad in town—it's really beautiful. Falafel on tahini, artichoke, feta cubes, and a gorgeous pile of maché lettuce leaves ($8.50).

The service was great, with Matt visiting the lunch tables, and Corinne Sherbert DeCamp (moving from back of the house to front of the house) asking my six-year-old if he needed a less crunchy bread for his ham sandwich.

The exposed Douglas fir and rusty raw look to the place is transporting and made me feel like I couldn't possibly be in the Twin Cities. Our restaurant scene has really stepped up with exciting design—places like Bar La Grassa, Heidi's, Butcher & the Boar—it's quite fun.

It's been about a year since we all started talking about Icehouse, and even if you have to brave inclement weather to go, it's worth it.

2528 Nicollet Ave., Mpls.
612-276-6523, icehousempls.com

Edit ModuleShow Tags

About This Blog

Minnesota Monthly's Taste Blog answers your restaurant and dining questions, dishes on latest discoveries, reflects on breaking news, and generally brings the plate to the page with a skilled crew of experts: Learn more about the Taste bloggers.

Have a food-related question? Email rhutton@mnmo.com

Edit ModuleShow Tags
Edit ModuleShow Tags

More »Taste Blog

Tacos & Tequila After Dark

Kick off your Super Bowl celebrations with Minnesota Monthly. Dance the night away at our exclusive, first annual Tacos & Tequila After Dark event on Jan. 31 from 9 p.m. to the stroke of midnight.

Posole with Chorizo, Pepitas and Cotija Recipe

Spice up your day with comforting, hearty South-of-the-Border inspired soup

3 Things to Eat This Week: Jan. 10–14

Banana cake with peanut butter frosting, plus two more things to eat, recommended by food critic Joy Summers

Roasted Vegetable Ratatouille Recipe

A healthy, flavorful vegetable stew is made even easier in your slow cooker

35 Bucks for a Cocktail. Is It Worth It?

A NE Minneapolis speakeasy experience with a premium cocktail. But should you pay $35?

Mediterranean White Bean Hummus Recipe

A different savory dip for veggies, crackers or bread will be a welcome change of pace in this season of sweets

Best Restaurants of 2017

Food critic Jason DeRusha picks the best new and current restaurants in the Twin Cities Minneapolis and St. Paul and suburbs

3 Things to Eat This Week: Dec. 19–25

Before the holidays conclude, hit up these three Twin Cities spots for festive feasting

The Most Instagrammable Twin Cities Cafes and Restaurants of 2017

Looking to spruce up your Instagram? The food at these local cafes and restaurants looks as good as it tastes.
Edit ModuleShow Tags
Edit ModuleShow Tags