Edit ModuleShow Tags

DeRushaEats: Are Restaurant Reviews Obsessed with the New?


Published:

Log onto most food blogs, pick up most regional magazines (actually, just pick up MnMo), and you'll find reviews of new restaurants. It's a rarity to read a review of a four-year-old place, or a two-year-old place, much less a ten-year-old restaurant. Is that a mistake?

I was thinking about this when I read Jim Meyer's critique of City Pages' Pick to Click issue. CP polls a bunch of musicheads and comes up with the top new musicians in town. But Jim complained: "If [Picks to Click] didn't exist, there would be no need to invent it because in these days of unprecedented local-music attention, the likely winners are already overexposed (and usually overrated) before the ink dries."

He adds: "New bands is all one hears about anymore. Another day, another holler. "

Isn't this also true of restaurants?

I cover suburban dining for Minnesota Monthly, and every month I go visit a new or newish restaurant to put in the magazine. The idea being that people want to know about new places. Do they also want to know about old places? Do you?

Right now Travail in Robbinsdale is all anyone is writing about (To be honest, I haven't been there yet. Neither has Zimmern—even he wrote about it this week!). Would you, dear eaters, be better served by reading a refreshed review of Victory 44? Corner Table? Chino Latino? Sea Change? The Strip Club? Heck, I wouldn't mind seeing a review of the Monte Carlo. Or Murray's.

Jim wrote that the obsession with new music actually lowers the bar by rewarding new, unpolished acts. "There has never been a better time to be a mediocre new local band. Consequently, they are innumerable," he said.

This may be the case with restaurants too.

I know our society is obsessed with the fresh, new thing (which is why I hope WCCO doesn't hire a fresh, new, balding white guy. I'm still the fresh, new thing in that category!). And maybe most readers already know about these older restaurants, so there's nothing worth writing about. But almost everyone agrees that restaurants take a couple months, at least, to get their footing. Would anyone read a "Best Old Restaurants" issue? Is there a more established suburban restaurant that you think people should know about? Sound off in the comments.

Edit ModuleShow Tags

About This Blog

Minnesota Monthly's Taste Blog answers your restaurant and dining questions, dishes on latest discoveries, reflects on breaking news, and generally brings the plate to the page with a skilled crew of experts: Learn more about the Taste bloggers.

Have a food-related question? Email rhutton@mnmo.com

Edit ModuleShow Tags
Edit ModuleShow Tags

More »Taste Blog

Toast the Royal Wedding with British-Gin Cocktails

As Britain’s Prince Harry and U.S.-actress Megan Markle tie the knot, raise a glass to the happy couple—and those close to you—with wedding-themed tipples

Bottoms-Up Cinnamon Caramel Pinwheels Recipe

With this fast version of a sticky bun, baking at home can be no muss, no fuss—and delicious

Leslie Bock's Newest Bar Wants to Save the Future

"We're attempting to show humans as messy and complicated."

Rosé All Day: The Best Tastings (Some Free)

More than 100 different rosé wines available to try—many for free

Wine Clubs: The Perfect Mother's Day Gift

Sip Better figures out your taste for wine and goes deep

Gavin Kaysen Takes Midwest Gold

A quick note on our 2018 James Beard Best Chef: Midwest

Sue Z.'s Charitable Check-In: May

This month, Sue Z. recommends supporting local student chefs with a dinner at Saint Dinette

Greek Yogurt Marinated Chicken Kebabs Recipe

Get fired up for grilling season with tender, flavorful chicken kebabs by meat guru Bruce Aidells and a marinade that also works well with other proteins

My Name Is Jason and I Used to Hate Brunch

Brunch has undergone a renaissance in the Twin Cities. Food critic Jason DeRusha picks his top spots for brunch this year.
Edit ModuleShow Tags
Edit ModuleShow Tags