Review: Joynoëlle's 2018 Collection Shoots for the Stars


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The veteran Minneapolis designer took inspiration from outer space for her latest couture collection.

Image by Sridhar Thayur

Joy Teiken has been creating collections consistently every year since founding her line, Joynoëlle, in 2003. Since then, the Minneapolis designer has been one of the most prolific in the Twin Cities, and her collections—presented once a year in a stylized showcase—are can't-miss affairs. She injects thoughtfulness, technical detail, and pure inspiration into every stitch. She is known to combine inspiration from unusual sources, such as dinosaurs and fungi, with Victorian-inspired silhouettes and innovative fabric combinations. 

For her 2018 collection, the veteran fashion designer debuted her latest collection in a two-part, intimate presentation in May. Taking inspiration from NASA images, space exploration footage, and spacesuits, the designer showcased looks that represented a different aspect of the galaxy, made with fabrics—most of which were leftovers that she collected over the years from past collections—that she manipulated into intriguing, varied textures and sculptural silhouettes. Because of the eclectic source material and varying textures and fabrics utilized throughout, the presentation took on something of a greatest-hits look. Eagle eyes could spot various fabrics from Teiken's previous collections, furthering the comprehensive feel of the collection. ("Each piece is a little bit different," the designer had told me prior to the show. "I'm not looking at it so much as a cohesive collection as much as individual looks that represents a different aspect of the galaxy.")

 IMAGE BY SRIDHAR THAYUR

Two cloaks made from swathes of sheer layers and scrap fabric cut into diaphanous ribbons were displayed on mannequins at the entrance of Lightbox Studio, along with installations showcasing inspiration imagery for the collection. They set the tone for the live presentation, which began with an intricately-cut dress featuring a blue-on-white pattern that looks like images of clouds swirling above the Earth. It was followed by two sculptural, intergalactic gowns in white tulle, cream silk chiffon that would be fit for Effie Trinket on her wedding day.

Next was a look that combined a skirted striped bustier with matching shorts with an Edwardian feel, a textured gown that was reminiscent of Teiken's 2017 fungi-inspired collection, and an A-line dress cut from panels of jewel-toned silk scraps that were stitched together, inspired by Jupiter's gases. Another look featured a bust made from intricately pleated black organza with safety pins that burst out at the shoulders. Another in sheer navy silk features circular seaming across the bodice and skirt, a nod to the circular shapes of solar systems. While each look was individually unique, the overall look throughout the presentation was equal parts Victoriana and space-age. 

During the presentation, models stood next to imagery that inspired each look, so the viewer could see the connection to each. And because of the informal style of the presentation, the audience could get an up-close look at each garment—and the chance to look at the stars and galaxies beyond, without a telescope. 

Read more about the inspiration behind the collection in my behind-the-scenes studio visit with the designer on the MNMO style blog. View more images below, and runway video of the show at @jahnapeloquin on Instagram.

IMAGE by SRIDHAR THAYUR

IMAGE BY SRIDHAR THAYUR

 IMAGE BY SRIDHAR THAYUR

 IMAGE BY SRIDHAR THAYUR

 IMAGE BY SRIDHAR THAYUR

 IMAGE BY SRIDHAR THAYUR

 IMAGE BY SRIDHAR THAYUR

IMAGE BY SRIDHAR THAYUR

IMAGE BY Jahna peloquin

image by jahna peloquin

image by jahna peloquin

image by jahna peloquin

IMAGE by jahna peloquin

IMAGE by jahna peloquin

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