Yes, the local restaurant scene has gotten ever more chef-driven, internationally aware, and locally sourced. But what about that oh-so-Midwestern restaurant concept of the budget-friendly (but still really nice) steak house? While we’ve all been eating kohlrabi and wild pheasant, the Midwestern steak house has been quietly perfected by Parasole, the restaurant company behind Manny’s, Chino Latino, Burger Jones, and so many other local restaurants. For proof, report to the second location of their affordable-steak house concept (Pittsburgh Blue) in the Galleria in Edina. (The first location is in Maple Grove.)
For their strongest effort, go for lunch and get the $16 flat-iron steak. It’s truly succulent, buttery, and lush; rich, red, and wonderfully carnivorous. Pair it with the excellent, fat, sweet-onion rings; a plate of the crisp, perfect hash browns (made famous at Manny’s); and a big bold red from their always estimable wine list. Don’t bother with also-rans like the coconut shrimp (bland to the point of invisibility) or crab cakes (full of crab, and yet still flavorless)—steak, sides, and wine are what you want here.
The burgers are pretty good, with a nice high-quality beefiness to them, and the fries are excellent. Still, the steaks are better. For high-roller dinners, most Minnesotans will likely continue to prefer the center of the universe, also known as Manny’s. But when you’re picking up your own tab and want ample free parking, this new Pittsburgh Blue has done something that very much needed doing: perfected affordable steak in the suburbs.
Pittsburgh Blue, 3220 W. 70th St., Edina, 952-567-2700, pittsburghbluesteak.com
