Revisit: Bev's Wine Bar
The taste of the ’90s is alive in the North Loop
photos by tj turner
Joy: Wine bars are once again becoming a trend across the United States, but Bev’s Wine Bar has been in the North Loop since 1995—before we were even calling it the North Loop. I don’t think I’d been since I was a newly minted legal drinker, so I was anxious to pull my Doc Martens and babydoll dress out of their mothballs for a triumphant return.
Jason: The room is beautiful, and the vibe is not at all pretentious. On the Monday we visited, the owner was behind the bar wearing shorts, a t-shirt, and a ball cap. Your food options are limited, but there are some nice touches.
Joy: It’s just a bit off the beaten path, and finding that chill sidewalk patio or dipping into the interior bar feels like insider knowledge. This is how to hide out from the trendiness of the nearby neighborhood—or the intensity of a Twins game at Target Field.
Jason: One of Bev’s owners also owns Moose & Sadie’s. They bake the baguettes fresh every day and make the dough for the tasty bar pizzas.
Joy: The food is built for snacking and for pairing with the wines. It’s best to come and graze on nibbles of cheese, olives, and a baguette.
Jason: The wine list is weird/interesting, ranging from really small, unusual producers to some giant, boring wines. Carménère is a spicy, bold varietal, but Root: 1 is cheap and everywhere. However, we found a glass of a nice Primo Rosso from a small winemaker from Mendocino, California, and a fairly uncommon Côtes Du Rhône from Perrin. And both were just $8.50 a glass.
French Lucques olives and herbed salami
Joy: The Caesar salad was snappy romaine and a tart, cheesy topping. Spreading Brie on my baguette, I was sure I was channeling my best ’90s self. All I needed was a flannel at my waist and a little more angst. I appreciated that the house wine is college-budget affordable at $5.95 a glass.
Jason: Some minor quibbles: In an age when more restaurants are really focusing on the temperature at which wine is served, it was a little frustrating to get red wine at room temp. It should be chilled to somewhere between 60-68°F.
Joy: Mine was downright warm, but isn’t that the right temperature for discussing enlightenment and poetry until the wee hours? I do think the service could use some updating. The wine here probably wouldn’t impress my hardcore grape nerd friends, but it’s still a cool little spot to get away from downtown’s fast pace.
Bev's Wine Bar Quick Tips
More Than Wine
Bev's has a full bar, and a good selection of local tap beer
3:30-6:30 p.m. every weekday, house wine $5 a glass
Metered street parking: it's close to Target Field and Target Center, so it can be a challenge
Bev's Wine Bar
250 Third Ave. N., Minneapolis | bevswinebar.com