Outstanding Old-School Pizza
Jason and Joy share hidden gems for the best traditional pies
Restaurant recommendations from MnMo food critics Jason DeRusha and Joy Summers.
My 8-year-old son’s favorite food in the world is pizza. I love it too: infinite variations on a base of crust, sauce, and cheese. So simple but so hard to nail.
Latuff’s Pizza: For 45 years, Latuff’s has been getting it done in the western suburbs. The Latuff family cuts their pizzas diagonally, so you end up with parallelogram-shaped pieces instead of squares, which I love for no particular reason. The crust is good and the sauce is savory. Get the Italian Favorite with sausage, salami, and pepperoncinis. (Highway 55 & 169, Plymouth)
Jet’s Pizza: I know, I know…a chain? Yes. There are 350 Jet’s locations around the country for good reason: It’s really good take-out pizza! Get the 8-Corner pan pizza (they call it deep dish, but it isn’t), or “flavorize” your hand-tossed crust with poppy seeds, romano, or cajun flavors. (8 MN locations including St. Cloud, Eden Prairie, and Blaine)
Photo by TJ Turner
One of the great joys in life is the first cheesy bite of a terrific slice of pizza. That is, until the hot-cheese chin-slap comes. But I still refuse to wait until it cools! Pizza is my everything.
Red Savoy’s on West 7th: I would be in love with this restaurant if for no other reason than the bar is perfect: long and retro, with a great elbow rest. Plus, the room is so blessedly dark. However, the square-cut pizza, buried in cheese with its thin crust dusted in garlic powder, inspires deep and passionate devotion. It’s great for kids, too—just request a seat by the large fish tank. (Downtown St. Paul)
Maverick’s Pizza in St. Paul: I’ve too long kept this take-away and delivery-only gem a secret. Maverick’s wide New York–style slices fold beautifully and the sauce is artfully spiced. The Italian sausage is my favorite, seasoned with plenty of fennel and a welcome amount of kick. (Randolph & Edgcumbe, St. Paul)