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Monday, December 14, 2009

Review: Bar La Grassa

Before taping a local television show a few weeks ago, I was in the green room with Melissa Gilbert, former television Little House on the Prairie star and recent musical Little House on the Prairie star. I was busy wishing I had worn different sunglasses and eyeing her mink-y iPhone case and wondering if such a thing was useful when the conversation turned to restaurants. “Have you been to Bar La Grassa yet?” she asked. “No,” I lied.

I often lie about visiting restaurants when I’m in the middle of reviewing them. You never know who’s going to talk to whom—or about what! Or when.… “You have to go!” she cried out, theatrically. (Incidentally, most people in green rooms are doing one of three things: crying out theatrically, muttering furtively into cell phones, or wishing they had worn different sunglasses.) I asked why.

“It’s simply wonderful!” she said.

“What did you have that was wonderful?” I demanded, trying not to betray that I had, in fact, been there. “The burrata with chile oil!” she cried out. “Really?”—I hoped I wasn’t making a face—“What else?” “The lobster with soft eggs.” I had to give her that, but pressed: “What else?” At which point, she was called away, and I was left to consider the central dilemma of my professional life: What was delicious at Bar La Grassa? Besides the soft eggs and the gnocchi? Really, what?

Bar La Grassa is the hotly anticipated second venture of Isaac Becker . . .

For the rest of this review, read "Star Underperformer."

Posted on Monday, December 14, 2009 in Permalink

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About This Blog

Dear Dara is the place where Minnesota Monthly readers can interact with our dining critic and senior editor Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl. What makes her so special? She’s been reviewing restaurants and covering food and wine in the Twin Cities since 1995, most notably asCity Pages’ restaurant critic, but also for Gourmet, USA Today, Wine & Spirits, Bon Appetit, and Saveur. She’s been included in five editions of the Best Food Writing anthologies, and been nominated for seven James Beard Awards – though, to tell you the truth, most of the time the medals from her four wins are buried under a pile of chocolate wrappers at the back of her desk. This blog will be where she’ll answer your questions, (though probably not all of them), dish on her latest discoveries, reflect on breaking news, and generally bring the plate to the page.

Send your dining questions to Dara! Email her at dmgrumdahl@minnesotamonthly.com.
 

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