Minnesota Monthly's eNewsletters
Bookmark and Share
Friday, May 1, 2009

Sustainability Today: Does it Make You Need a Beer?

I’m going to be appearing on stage next week, at the Varsity Theater in Dinkytown, as part of the Current’s “Policy and a Pint” discussion series. What are we discussing? Thinking globally, eating locally, sustainability, and what it means today. Come! Tickets are only $10, or $5 if you have a student ID. You get appetizers from the Loring Pasta Bar with your ticket: Buy here.

There’s a lot to consider about sustainability today. For instance, why do we have this swine-flu pandemic? There’s a great article in the UK Guardian tracking a part of the story that American media is ignoring.

Here’s a little taste of the excellent article by Mike Davis on “the planetary catastrophe of industrialized and ecologically unhinged livestock production.”

“In 1965, for instance, there were 53 million U.S. hogs on more than one million farms; today, 65 million hogs are concentrated in 65,000 facilities. This has been a transition from old-fashioned pig pens to vast excremental hells, containing tens of thousands of animals with weakened immune systems suffocating in heat and manure while exchanging pathogens at blinding velocity with their fellow inmates.”

That’s why I get all my pork from the VanDerPol family in Kerkhoven, Minnesota.

Wonderful people, wonderful farming practices. Also, their pork makes industrial pork taste like cardboard dipped in ammonia. So I live in a world both guilt-free and yummy. Yet I pay more for meat than people shopping at big-box stores. I’m lucky enough to be able to afford to do this. How to make the world behave more like me without being an elitist, preachy jerk? Maybe we’ll figure that out.

Other topics to consider: The oceans are still over-fished and fisheries are about to collapse. Since writing on the topic last year… ("No Guilt Fish")

… I’ve more or less restricted my fish intake to Alaskan seafood, domestic catfish, oysters, mussels, clams, and scallops, certain crabs, and a couple other non-over-fished species like hamachi. And yet I still can’t get on board with tilapia, which I know is the fish that will save us all, because it eats plants, not other fish (like most other farmed fish). Stewart Woodman, from Heidi’s, posted a great video on how to cook tilapia under a salt-crust—a recipe I know will be more delicious than tilapia fillets. But even this does not have me running out the door to buy tilapia. What will push me over the edge from knowing tilapia is good to actually wanting to eat it?

Scott Pampuch, the chef and owner of the restaurant The Corner Table, will be on stage with me for the event. I talked to him on the phone yesterday about what he thought the big issues in sustainability were right now, and asked him whether the current economic panic was going to make sustainability it a secondary concern. He told me he thought quite the contrary: His receipts are more or less what they were this time last year, meaning he has the same number of diners, and he thought that rising prices for commodity foods was actually leveling the playing field between sustainable foods and non-sustainable ones.

I’m going to be making phone calls this week checking in what other people think about sustainability today, in all its guises. Should Minneapolis have given all those Block E leases to big corporations like Snyder Drug, Border’s, and GameWorks, all of whom have bailed or are bailing, when locals like Jason McLean, owner of the Loring Pasta Bar, desperately wanted in? Wouldn’t local stakeholders have created a more sustainable city? Do people feel that the USDA Organics is important to them, or has the luster on the concept faded with big, bad-faith players like Horizon Organics in the mix? When it comes to wine, do you put your money behind sustainable wineries like Napa Valley’s Honig, or do you give up on warm-climate varietals with thousands of years of European history like Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon and cultivate a taste for cold-hardy Minnesota wines?

Where does economic justice fit into all of this? There’s the ever-problematic tip-credit issue. (This is about whether tipped employees could get a lower minimum wage: Fine dining restaurants lament that they can’t afford to give their cooks more money because they keep having to pay mandated minimum wages to servers taking home hundreds of dollars a night in tips. On the other hand, the number of servers actually making those big bucks is small. The vast majority of servers in this state are working in rural diners, suburban chains, and so on. If you put in a tip credit, maybe some Minneapolis fine dining cooks get their pay raised from $10 an hour to $13, but a server at a truck stop in Blue Earth sees her wages plunge from $6.15 an hour to $3-something.) There’s the issue of whether you support restaurants that provide a living wage and health insurance for their employees, like The Modern Café in Northeast, or just let the chips fall where they may. Do you care about slave-tomatoes?

Or do you just want tomatoes on your burger and not have the one oasis in your hectic week polluted by these big questions? Where does your own right to sustain yourself, emotionally, intellectually, financially, and otherwise, come into sustainability in the macro sense?

I will give definitive, conclusive answers to all of these questions Wednesday night. Probably at 6:17 p.m.

Okay, you know I’m kidding, right?

My big fear for this discussion is that people are going to come and hope for one answer. But I don’t have that one easy answer. My big hope is that people come and bring their own good ideas, and are up for hashing out one of the big questions of our time. Hope to see you there!

Posted on Friday, May 1, 2009 in Permalink

Comments may be edited for length, clarity, or appropriateness.

Reader Comments:
Old to new | New to old
May 1, 2009 11:17 pm
 Posted by  Patti

I will totally be there--sounds like a great and important discussion! So much to talk about and consider.

As far as tilapia...I was never big on it before a friend wrapped some in foil on top of onions, capers, mushrooms, tons of garlic and olive oil and threw it on the grill. That was a couple of years ago, but I still remember how delicious it was! (I have yet to try it myself for fear of it being gross.)

May 2, 2009 08:08 am
 Posted by  L.Hoff

If you have had groddy, muddy tasting tilapia in the past, hie yourself over to The Wedge and try theirs.

One of the guys behind the counter told me that they source theirs from the cleanest farming operation they could find. In fact, he told me that it was "the cleanest seafood the government has ever tested" and the taste is great. It's more oily, sweet and delicious than the bargain stuff.

I eat it once a week since it changed my perception of that fish.

May 4, 2009 11:24 am
 Posted by  Dara

Okay, Tilapia, it's what's for dinner!

Also, for tilapia lovers in the house: Do you want $5,000?

If so, pilot your browser to: www.regalsprings.com, where they're offering a 5k prize for someone who comes up with the best tilapia dinner for 4 that costs less than $15.

Intriguingly, it's open to professionals, and seems to be limited only to one entry per e-mail address, though you also have to send a photo of your dish. So: Are you a line cook who wants $5k? Why not start running some blue plate specials with tilapia? Your boss foots the bill for your ingredient costs, no one knows if you don't win, you're feeding the greenest fish there is (um, ecology- and environment-wise, not color-wise) and thus helping the planet -- it's a win, win, win. Or possibly a win, win, WIN! Gentlepersons, start your stoves!

May 4, 2009 01:15 pm
 Posted by  Dara

One thing I'm hearing from a lot of people is that 'sustainability' is becoming/has become meaningless because it's such a popular buzzword. True?

Check out this hilarious/depressing "Sustainability Buzzword Generator" for further insights:

http://www.building.co.uk/story.asp?storycode=3130368


It takes sustainability buzzwords and combines them into titles for your new in-house initiative. It's very good, so far it's given me:

ethical change network

stakeholder cradle to grave vision

and

balanced convergence strategy

Sigh.

May 7, 2009 09:13 am
 Posted by  k

Wish we could have been there, but the site for purchasing tickets was down (still is) and we decided against leaving work early to stand in line and possibly not get in.

Really curious to hear any comments, though. How did it go?

Add your comment:

Create an instant account, or please log in if you have an account.




Forgot your password?
Verification Question. (This is so we know you are a human and not a spam robot.)

What is 2 + 3 ? 

About This Blog

Dear Dara is the place where Minnesota Monthly readers can interact with our dining critic and senior editor Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl. What makes her so special? She’s been reviewing restaurants and covering food and wine in the Twin Cities since 1995, most notably asCity Pages’ restaurant critic, but also for Gourmet, USA Today, Wine & Spirits, Bon Appetit, and Saveur. She’s been included in five editions of the Best Food Writing anthologies, and been nominated for seven James Beard Awards – though, to tell you the truth, most of the time the medals from her four wins are buried under a pile of chocolate wrappers at the back of her desk. This blog will be where she’ll answer your questions, (though probably not all of them), dish on her latest discoveries, reflect on breaking news, and generally bring the plate to the page.

Send your dining questions to Dara! Email her at dmgrumdahl@minnesotamonthly.com.
 

Dara's Latest Reviews

Best Takeout
Restaurant Cru
Burger Madness Risotto
Capital Grills Santorini
Chef Shack Sea Change
Craftshouse Trattoria Tosca
Going Whole Hog Wakame Sushi
The Italian Job Zen Asian Contemporary
Lola's Lakehouse
New Restaurant Scene  

* Access all reviews here.

restaurants Blogs - BlogCatalog Blog Directory

Sign up for our e-newsletters!

MNMO Dish