Secrets of Superior

The Insider's Guide to the Best of Grand Marais, the North Shore, Bayfield, and Beyond

Photo by Jeff Johnson and Dan Olson

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North Shore

Duluth ➔ Lutsen

WHERE TO STAY

Larsmont Cottages ➔ Not too rustic, not too swanky, Larsmont is the Goldilocks of North Shore lodging. Modeled on a Swedish fishing village and located just south of Two Harbors, the resort radiates a sort of Pottery Barn-meets-Paul Bunyan vibe (think modern kitchens, gas fireplaces, and high thread counts) that’s comfy without being kitschy, contemporary without being austere. It’s a sensibility that extends to the resort’s amenities, as well. Sure, you can get a fancy massage, sit in the Finnish sauna, or go geocaching (whatever that is), but you can also bike, hike, kayak, or—best of all—just sit around a roaring fire, feet away from Superior’s rocky shore (the resort sits on 1,300 feet of shoreline property), contemplating all the reasons the place feels just right. 596 Larsmont Way, Two Harbors, 866-687-5634, larsmontcottages.com

Surfside on Lake Superior/Temperance Landing ➔ Twenty-five years after the folks behind Bluefin Bay changed visitors’ expectations about what a North Shore vacation could be, they’re doing it again with two new luxury properties: Surfside on Lake Superior and Temperance Landing. The latter sits on seven acres of forested land south of Tofte and is geared toward families and large groups—albeit groups looking for accommodations you’d expect to encounter in Aspen, not the Arrowhead. Indeed, each of Temperance Landing’s three-story, three-bath, 3,000-square-foot log homes sleep six to eight people and feature über-modern appliances, custom bed linens, floor-to-ceiling windows, and access to 600 feet of shoreline. Temperance Landing’s sister resort, Surfside, located just up the road, offers a more modern take, with contemporary, three-story town homes that boast every modern luxury—from gas fireplaces to Wi-Fi to a full-service spa (the region’s first)—and one very un-modern perk: jaw-dropping views of Lake Superior. Temperance Landing: from Duluth, follow Hwy. 61 north approximately 78 miles. Half a mile past the city limits of Schroeder, go east on Temperance Trail, 877-723-6426, temperancelanding.com. Surfside: 10 Surfside Dr., Tofte, 877-361-7873, surfsideonsuperior.com
 

WHERE TO EAT

Burrito Union ➔ Burrito Union in Duluth has done for burritos what Minneapolis-based Pizza Lucé has done for pizza—that is, made them hip, hearty, fun, and above-all user friendly. Hip and fun? Opulent chandeliers, colorful chalkboards, and a regular entertainment roster featuring local bands attract a cute-rugged population. User-friendly? Most everything is under $8, and there’s a selection of local microbrews that would be destination-
worthy no matter what kind of food Burrito Union had. Oh, and the food: In addition to burritos filled with things like red chile beef, the place is known to feature specials like a turkey-dinner burrito, served with a side of salsa made from cranberries. Best of all, they serve it with Surly beer. 1332 E. Fourth St., Duluth, 218-728-4414, burritounion.com

Rustic Inn Cafe ➔ Pies get all the attention when it comes to North Shore eats, but a big breakfast is the region’s true culinary signature. And no place does it bigger or better than Rustic Inn Cafe in Castle Danger. With its fluffy omelets, perfect home fries, skillet breakfasts stacked as high as Gooseberry Falls, Rustic offers the perfect fare to fuel a day of hiking, biking, kayaking, or doing nothing at all. And if the eggs, sausage, and potatoes don’t fill you up, there’s always another option (besides gastric bypass surgery). Pie, it turns out, is an excellent way to start the day. 2773 Hwy. 61, Two Harbors, 218-834-2488

New Scenic Café ➔ A modest proposal: the New Scenic Café should think about dropping the “new” from its name. It’s not because the place isn’t new, though it’s not—it’s been around for 10 years. Nor is it because the cozy restaurant, with its focus on seasonal, refined-but-unfussy offerings (roasted beets, pork tenderloin, goat-cheese cake), has, over that time, become the go-to dining option for many North Shore visitors. It’s just that it’s beginning to seem a little odd to keep calling a place “new” long after it’s become, well, a tradition. 5461 North Shore Scenic Dr., Duluth, 218-525-6274, sceniccafe.com
 

SNACK STOP

Amazing Grace Bakery and Cafe
» Fair-trade brew, biodegradable cups, folksingers on weekends, fresh bread daily, and cinnamon rolls that are way better than Tobie’s. An easy stop, located in Canal Park. 394 S. Lake Ave., Duluth, 218-723-0075
 

NORTH SHORE HALL OF FAME

Betty’s Pies  For more than 50 years, Betty’s has been as synonymous with the North Shore as pine trees and plaid. And despite its time-warp feel—imagine the diner in Happy Days set a stone’s throw from the shores of Lake Superior—it remains a dessert-lover’s mecca, a place to find, among other things, the world’s greatest five-layer chocolate pie.
 

WHAT TO DO

Gitchi-Gami State Trail ➔ Ah, the Getaway Paradox: You drive two, three, four hours to see some bit of natural splendor, to leave it all behind, to get away, only to arrive at your destination and find hordes of people doing the exact same thing. Well, we have an answer to the Getaway Paradox, at least when it comes to the North Shore: Bring a bike. More specifically, bring a bike and hit the Gitchi-Gami State Trail. When completed, the paved trail for non-motorized vehicles will run all the way from Two Harbors to Grand  Marais, an 86-mile companion to Highway 61. Until then, the trail’s longest completed section, from Gooseberry Falls to Beaver Bay, offers the best and coolest way to enjoy one of the most scenic stretches of North Shore: over rolling hills, through birch and aspen forests, across waterfalls—into places where you’ll actually be able to get away from all those people getting away from it all. Park at the Gooseberry Falls State Park, 3206 Hwy. 61 E., Two Harbors, 218-834-3855, dnr.state.mn.us/state_trails/gitchigami/index.html

The Alpine Slide at Lutsen ➔  The experience starts with the chairlift ride to the summit of Eagle Mountain, where the expansive views of the Sawtooth Mountains and Lake Superior should comfort and please even the most leisurely inclined members of your tribe. Then there’s the ride itself. The key to the alpine slide is that you get to control the speed of your sled as it dips, turns, and churns down the luge-like, half-mile track. Cautious folks are free to move slower than a Merchant-Ivory film, while adventurous types can rocket down the mountain at speeds that will make their insurance agents sweat. 467 Ski Hill Rd., Lutsen, 218-663-7281, lutsen.com
 

BEST SHORT HIKES

WHAT TO SEE

Tettegouche State Park ➔ Here’s what you think when you stand on the edge of Shovel Point in Tettegouche State Park—at least, here’s what you should think: Thank God for rich dudes. In 1910, after a large tract of land north of Silver Bay had been logged within an inch of its life, some Duluth businessmen bought the property to use as a retreat. Eventually, it was acquired by the state, and today, the park boasts dramatic cliffs and inland bluffs, the cascading High Falls of the Baptism River, and the historic Tettegouche Camp, where visitors can stay the night. So hike out to Shovel Point and take in the spectacular view of Palisade Head. Then say a silent toast to a bunch of guys you’ll never get the chance to thank. 5702 Hwy. 61, Silver Bay, 218-226-6365, dnr.state.mn.us/state_parks/tettegouche/index.html