Ultimate Up North Guide

Drivable destinations from Bemidji to Bayfield

Photo by Todd Buchanan

(page 1 of 3)

The best places to stay, sights to see, and food to eat this summer, plus where to find award-winning golf courses, great sailing, top beaches, wilderness hiking, and more!
 

South Shore Postcard

Bayfield

The problem with postcards sent from Bayfield is that scenic images can’t fully convey the region’s charms—the sun rays pinging over the slumbering leviathans known as the Apostle Islands, the sound of a kayaker’s paddle slapping the waves in a sea cave, the civilizing effect of a round of croquet under the lighthouse on Raspberry Island, or the pleasure of spending an afternoon on the sandy crescent-shaped beach at Big Bay State Park on Madeline Island. The postcards don’t exude the scents of pine or apple cider or sun-baked fish guts—all of which have their season—or the press of people during the annual apple festival each fall. And let’s be clear: Even the most poetic note about riding a ferry from the mainland to La Pointe, the only town on Madeline Island, also known as the “Place of the Golden Flickers”—well, it can’t hold a candle to experiencing the surprising thrill and literal chill of the real thing. So don’t wait for someone else to send you a postcard from northeastern Wisconsin, extolling the fun of eating fish livers (a Bayfield tradition), taking a sunset cruise (we’d advise waiting till it’s warm), and tooling around on the country roads that crisscross the Bayfield Peninsula. Go see for yourself what it’s all about. Then drop us a line—a single, solitary line: You were so right.
—JOEL HOEKSTRA
 

WHEN YOU GO

STAY It’s off the beaten track, but Siskiwit Bay Lodge B&B may be among the most scenic places to stay on Lake Superior’s South Shore. Built to resemble an old-style lake resort, it has four rooms and gourmet breakfasts. 89405 Jack Pine Rd., Cornucopia, Wis., 866-882-6939, siskiwitbaylodge.com

EAT Maggie’s is where Bayfield insiders go when they want good, affordable food in a no-fuss environment. The black-bean nachos with green chili sauce and Monterrey jack cheese are legendary, but diners looking to “eat local” have lots to choose from, too: Cajun lake trout; sautéed whitefish; and even an
appetizer of sautéed whitefish livers—a local delicacy—prepared with green peppers, onions, and mushrooms. 257 Manypenny Ave., Bayfield, Wis., 715-779-5641; maggies-bayfield.com

SEE Learn about Native American cultures, boat-building, and Wisconsin history at the Madeline Island Museum. 226 Colonel Woods Ave., La Pointe, Wis., 715-747-2415, madelineislandmuseum.wisconsinhistory.org

DO Folk music, comedy, classical music, and spoken word. Nothing in the area beats the Big Top Chautauqua for local nightlife. 101 W. Bayfield St., Washburn, Wis., 888-244-8368, bigtop.org

Classic Lakeside Leisure

Brainerd

This is Minnesota’s quintessential up-north destination—the heart of lake country—and it’s all within a little more than two-hour drive (barring weekend traffic) of the Cities. With hundreds of lakes in the area, choices abound whether your water-sport pleasure runs to boating or fishing or swimming. Dozens of resorts offer the full smorgasbord of summertime fun: golfing, boating, fishing, dining, or just relaxing on the beach. If small and low-key is your style, a number of mom-and-pop operations in the area cater to families. No worries if the lakeside action pales. There’s always plenty going on: Arts in the Park, a juried show in Brainerd’s Gregory Park (July 3); the Two Rivers Music Fest and Craft Fair in Motley (July 23–July 25); Cajun Fest 2010 at Northern Lights Casino in Walker (August 91–21); and Street Fest on Seventh (formerly known as the Great Northern BBQ) in downtown Brainerd (August 28).
—CHRIS LEE
 

WHEN YOU GO

STAY Check into the glorious Grand View Lodge, and you’ll find plenty of amenities to please—whether you prefer to relax by golfing, fishing, swimming, boating, or decadent pampering at the lodge’s own Glacial Waters Spa. Or try a wine tasting at the Headwater’s Wine Cellar, hosted weekly by sommelier Timothy Edmunds. Rooms in the historic main lodge start at $350/night; cabins at $430/night; townhomes and villas $430/night; and golf-course suites, at $235/night. 23521 Nokomis Ave., Nisswa, 218-963-2234, grandviewlodge.com

EAT Go to Iven’s on the Bay for the martinis, but stay for the exquisitely prepped food. Everything, from the mayo to the yummy chocolate-fudge and raspberry strudel, is made from scratch. 19090 Hwy. 371 N., Brainerd, 218-829-6666, ivensonthebay.com

SEE The 27-foot-tall statue of Paul (who will greet the kids by name) at Paul Bunyan Land. Or, step back in time at Pioneer Village. 17553 State Hwy. 18, Brainerd, 218-764-2524, paulbunyanland.com

DO Watch the turtle races in Nisswa, Wednesdays at 2 p.m., June 9–August 18 (for more info call, 218-963-2620). Too slow? Learn to drive a racecar at Brainerd International Raceway Performance Driving School. 5523 Birchdale Rd., Brainerd, 218-824-7223, brainerdraceway.com

Celebrate the Summer

Duluth

Summer in Duluth is brief, but the town celebrates the season with an endless lineup of festivals and events. Duluth welcomes 3.5 million tourists a year. For some, the draw is running in or cheering on competitors at Grandma’s Marathon (June 19), which finishes near Grandma’s Restaurant in Canal Park. For others, the action is at the Duluth Air Show (July 17–18), which features the USAF Thunderbirds this year. Summer’s high note is the Bayfront Blues Festival (August 13–15), when musicians and music lovers gather by the shore for three days of blues. The festival, in its 21st year, fills two stages with local and national acts in Bayfront Festival Park along Lake Superior. Visitors also delight in the art fairs (at Park Point in June and at Glensheen in August) and the arrival of tall ships (July 28-August 3). Take a break to stroll the shops and restaurants of Canal Park or learn about the city’s maritime history. There’s plenty to see at the Great Lakes Floating Maritime Museum and the S.S. William A. Irvin, both open for tours. The Great Lakes Aquarium and the Omnimax Theatre at the Duluth Entertainment Convention Center are also worth a stop.
—ELLIE BAYRD
 

WHEN YOU GO

STAY Views of Lake Superior and access to the lakewalk make The Inn on Lake Superior a comfortable and convenient destination. Enjoy free beachside s’mores each night. $109-$189/night. 350 Canal Park Dr., Duluth, 888-668-4352, theinnonlakesuperior.com

EAT Fitger’s entertainment and brewery complex has shops and restaurants with a view. Drink locally brewed beers and dine on burgers at The Brewhouse (218-279-2739, brewhouse.net) or stay late and listen to live music at the Red Star (218-723-7827, redstarclub.us). 600 E. Superior St., Duluth.

SEE The can’t-miss Duluth landmark: the Aerial Lift Bridge, a highlight of the 3-mile lakewalk. Off Lake Avenue in Canal Park.

DO Love history, architecture, and a good mystery? Tour Glensheen, the historic Congdon estate and the notorious setting for a true tale of Minnesota murder and intrigue. 3300 London Rd., Duluth, 218-726-8910, d.umn.edu/glen