One Two Three Sushi

Japanese, Chipotle-style

Whenever I stand in the beverage aisle of a large supermarket and survey every conceivable permutation of pulp-free, calcium-enriched, mango-spiked orange juice, I can’t help but think that Americans have taken their obsession with choice a little too far. And yet, queuing up outside One Two Three Sushi in the IDS Tower’s skyway—and oh are they lines: I might have skipped over to Banana Republic and purchased a pair of skinny-ankle pants during the wait I recently endured—I think the opportunity to have custom-made sushi is (almost) worth it. One Two Three, a slick, new, already-expanding concept from the folks behind Masu Sushi and Robata, lets diners build their own rolls, à la a Chipotle burrito or Subway sandwich. Unusual fillings—lobster, green-tea-smoked chicken, Asian pear—make for unusual rolls. And while a snow crab-Okinawan sweet potato maki topped with Screaming Thai sauce is unlikely to become a classic, it sure was fun to invent. One Two Three rounds out its menu with steamed buns as well as terrific ramen that’s packaged in a cute cardboard container with its broth in a separate bowl so the noodles don’t overcook while you’re toting your lunch back to the office.

IDS Center, skyway level, 80 S. Eighth St., Mpls.