Beer with your waffles? That’s the most relevant question to ask at the Lowry, the Blue Plate Restaurant Company’s attempt to break out of their Edina Grill/Longfellow Grill/Highland Grill paradigm with a longer, loftier menu. You see, the restaurant opened with an enormous, astounding, nearly endless beers-on-tap list, cocktails, raw oysters, and a terrifically long menu. Terrifically long.
At dinner, you’ll find everything from crêpes filled with pot au feu (the small amount of beef was delicious and tucked inside crêpes rolled so tightly they were about as big as a large cigar) and fish tacos (lot of shredded cabbage, decent fish, and cold flour tortillas), to solid if unexceptional burgers and a textbook-perfect plate of diner-style hash browns and scrambled eggs. There’s also the Hang Town Fry, a truly scrumptious sandwich packed full with fried oysters, bacon, and eggs. For breakfast, they offer marvelously puffy, crispy, altogether wonderful waffles, as well as an admirable version of biscuits and gravy with fluffy, tender biscuits and rich, sausage-laden gravy.
It’s hard to imagine anyone actually going to the Lowry for crêpes pot au feu, or any of the non-diner items, but it’s even more difficult to imagine that every twenty-something with an apartment in the Wedge won’t be here once a week for an eye-opener of waffles and the latest limited-edition Surly beer. The Lowry, 2112 Hennepin Ave., Mpls., 612-341-2112, thelowryuptown.com