Over the past decade, Minnesota menswear has been associated with a woodsy-urban aesthetic some have dubbed “lumbersexual”—think trimmed beards paired with undercut hair styles, rugged selvedge denim, Red Wing boots, and tailored flannel buttondowns. But if last week’s menswear fashion show, HOMME, is any indication, that look may be on its way out in favor of styles with a little more personality. Modist Brewing’s industrial North Loop warehouse vibe and moody lighting perfectly set the tone for the night. While last year’s show relied more heavily on menswear boutiques, this year’s event spotlighted collections by local designers (plus a new, big-name sponsor: luxury car brand Lexus). CVSTINGS, a line of redesigned clothing by designer and stylist Lisa Marie Gherardini, set the tone for the show with a five-look collection of reworked knitwear featuring dramatically lengthened sleeves, a leather jacket reimagined with patchwork detail. The elongated silhouettes were smartly balanced with loose-fitting, cropped trousers—a surprising and successful debut by the first-time menswear designer. And the show’s nontraditional, real-people models (which included rapper RP Hooks, who performed a raucous live set after the show) walked the runway with stilted, halting walks that infused the presentation with drama.
HOMME also marked the debut of House of Gina Marie designer Gina Moorhead’s first collection for her new menswear label, Grasmark Menswear. The bold florals and pastel pants were combined to dandy effect—particularly when styled with vintage fur stoles. Florals for fall? Yes—it’s a thing. Elsewhere, Minneapolis brand Greenwich Vintage, heretofore known for their colorfully soled men’s shoes, showcased their new line of branded varsity jackets, paired with tees from Sota Clothing and bags from Leather Works Minnesota, and up-and-coming designer Tony Sleaze showcased his unique line of whimsical, pattern-on-pattern zip-front shirts for his brand, Mermaids and Accolades. And while the emphasis was on local designs, a few layered fall looks from North Loop shop Atmosfere and vintage reseller Moth Oddities also walked the runway. Minneapolis menswear—it’s more than work boots and flannel.
all photos: Jay Larson
Greenwich Vintage (with Sota Clothing and Leather Works Minnesota):
Mermaids and Accolades:
Production by Sarah Edwards & Connie Mrotek
Hair by Whitney VerMeer—The Aesthetic