Review: Joynoëlle: Fungi: Beauty from Decay

Last week at the North Loop historic event space Aria, Minneapolis fashion designer Joy Teiken presented her spring 2017 collection under her eponymous label, Joynoëlle, as part of Fashion Week MN. Titled “Fungi: Beauty from Decay,” the 17-look line explored the world of mycology and nature’s transformative ability to create new life from decomposition. Set to an atmospheric soundtrack of music by Icelandic group Sigur Rós, the designer managed to outdo herself yet again with a collection that was quietly confident, movingly beautiful, and impeccably crafted.

[Read more: Joynoelle Brings Beauty from Decay in Fungi-Themed Fashion Show]

Since founding her line in 2003, Teiken been a consistent presence on the Twin Cities fashion scene. Her latest collection proved the designer is not only consistent, she just keeps getting better and better. Her signature fabric manipulations were on full display in a series of intricate pieces inspired by mushrooms and lichens. These couture garments were as beautiful as they were unusual, incorporating natural fabrics, such as silk charmeuse, silk organza, linen, and cheesecloth, as well as bits of upholstery fabrics and trim. Other fabrics she manipulated, such as a piece made up of rows of individual cords that she took apart and reconstructed in a new pattern. The collection features muted, natural shades—moss green, ivory, pale rose, and pale gold. Highlights included a pair of jaw-dropping pants featuring a hand-painted birch bark motif; a short-sleeved jacket with fuzzy trim echoing the appearance of lichen creeping across a tree trunk; and a show-stopping bridal gown finale look of pleated and sculpted silk chiffon inspired by the undersides of mushrooms.

The show was the second time Teiken has shown as Aria. This year, she showcased models on a grass-lined runway with handmade mushrooms and following the show, atop pedestals to give attendees a closer look at the garments. For the third year running, Teiken donated proceeds from the show to cancer awareness nonprofit Kill Kancer in honor of her mother, who died of breast cancer—a fitting tribute, especially for a collection with a life-after-death theme.

Additional credits: Introductions by Grant Whittaker and Professor Peter Kennedy; models by Arquette Agency; hair by Bespoke Hair Artisans; makeup by Fatima Olive and Jules Annen; and DJ Lori Barbero. Photos by Ella Cochrane

Where to Buy: By appointment at Joynoëlle Boutique & Atelier, 312 W. 42nd St., Minneapolis, 612-209-7822,