Boneyard chef Jason Bush’s family hails from Georgia, and he cooks just like his grandma taught him, pulling influences from across the region.

A sampling of meats highlights juicy shredded Carolina pork and St. Louis–style ribs with a well-rubbed bark, both of which overshadow fatty, chewy brisket. Fried chicken—Southern cuisine’s bread and butter—is simultaneously crisp and juicy. It’s even better as boneless tenders paired with crisp waffles, allowing sausage gravy and sriracha-spiked maple syrup to tie together sweet and savory.

Other Southern staples are hit-or-miss. Garlic-spiked grits are heavenly when hot but leave plenty to be desired once cool and congealed. Skillet-baked cornbread is addictive, especially topped with house-made honey butter. Bush’s family meatloaf recipe is for the more adventurous diner, featuring ground duck encased in crispy bacon, paired with a bright, acidic tomato jam standing in for ketchup and creamy mashed yukon golds.

In keeping with its Uptown locale, Boneyard’s bar is full and spirits are high. Décor toes the line between Southern charm (a wall covered in cast-iron skillets of various shape and size) and kitsch (light bulbs housed in Mason jars). While the wood-planked walls and open ceilings give a modern Southern industrial vibe, they do little to alleviate the dull roar of barflies sipping straight Kentucky bourbon and cocktails best suited for a summer porch. Fortunately, glass garage doors open to allow the crowd to spill onto a sunny patio.