The seductive Rocher Mousse
Photos by Kevin Kramer
A neon sign declares “Sweet Vibes Only,” but don’t expect sugar overloads at Edwards Dessert Kitchen.
Chef Christina Kaelberer lets ingredients lead, and the sweetness follows. If you get past the tantalizing display case without falling for the Rocher Mousse, the seasonal, made-to-order desserts show the shop’s full flavor and texture capabilities.
Highly recommended is this spring’s ornate Study of Citrus, colorful proof of acid fruits’ potential for depth and surprise. It pairs magically with the Verdant Crush, a minty citrus cocktail for gimlet fans. “We’re trying to push people’s boundaries,” Kaelberer says of the dish. “It’s more coursed, more interactive, and totally over-the-top.”
Kaelberer and her team opened up last summer offering confections, cookies, ice cream, popcorn, savory items, and plenty of gluten-free options. Beyond desserts, find pour-over True Stone coffee to pep up an afternoon meeting, plus a selection of cocktails (some on tap), beer, and wine for those post-dinner indulgences.
Edwards Dessert Kitchen is the first retail concept for Schwan’s Co., operating out of a beautifully restored Lowry-Morrison building on a prime corner in Minneapolis’ North Loop neighborhood. (An 80 percent stake in the Minnesota-born Schwan’s was sold to a South Korean food company in late 2018.)
The Edwards name refers to the company’s frozen pie line. According to Kaelberer, Shea, Inc. designed the inviting, cactus-filled space to be “something that boyfriends and husbands would be comfortable coming to.”
“What are you going to do after dinner?” Kaelberer says. “Are you going to go home? No, you’re not.”
Study of Citrus
In front: tres leches cake with guava citrus sorbet, pomelo, and lime
Behind that: salted coconut and nori sorbet with lime leaf syrup, finger limes, and lime meringue
In the back: Earl Grey pot de crème with kumquat marmalade and bergamot lace tuile
Citrus salad: medley of mandarin, cara cara, and blood oranges with dill
Cocktail pairing: Verdant Crush, with aquavit, apricot liqueur, lemon, agave, and mint
Edwards Dessert Kitchen
200 N. Washington Ave., Minneapolis