“I didn’t know why I would ever come there—was it a pizza place? A restaurant? I didn’t get it.”
As I sat at the bar at the new St. Pierre Steak & Seafood, from Isaac Becker and Nancy St. Pierre of Bar La Grassa and 112 Eatery fame, I ran into a friend of mine whose sister accurately summarized the challenge of the previous restaurant, Snack Bar. People didn’t get it. When I first reviewed it, I liked it. But it always felt like a restaurant that was for the North Loop neighborhood, not a restaurant that I would drive in to visit. An afterthought, in a way. I wasn’t alone—Becker and St. Pierre are used to constantly full, bustling restaurants, and the sorta-full Snack Bar just wasn’t getting it done.
Photos by Jason DeRusha
At the same time, the No. 1 restaurant I hear that people miss post-COVID is Burch Steak, Becker and St. Pierre’s steak and dumpling restaurant in Lowry Hill. It made all the sense in the world to try to relaunch some of the spirit of Burch—enter St. Pierre Steak & Seafood.
Early impression: It works. St. Pierre’s menu highlights seafood—which frankly, there’s a major opportunity in our town for that. Where do you go for great seafood? Sushi, sure, but since Sea Change evaporated there aren’t many good options. We loved the black cod in crazy water ($24),a beautifully cooked piece of cod in an intensely flavored, chili-spiced tomato broth. I had it last night and I’m still craving it.
The menu does keep some Snack Bar classics, like the fried eggplant with rosemary honey ($18), the garlic-fried octopus ($19), and the pressed game hen with salsa verde ($28). And many of the Burch dumplings have made a reappearance, like the Schupfnudeln stuffed with gorgonzola ($19), a dill and walnut pierogi ($16), and fried semolina dumpling with Parmesan ($15).
We tried a couple starters and both were show-stoppers. The foie gras toast with escargot ($18) was incredible. A thin-layer of foie, almost melted like butter, on a beautiful thick piece of toasted bread topped with four lovely little snails. The mushroom confit with artichokes and Taleggio ($18) gave an almost pasta effect—beautiful flavor and textures.
The Niman Ranch steak program is reminiscent of Burch, with a 7- or 14-ounce Hanger serving ($30 or $60), a 6- or 12-ounce NY strip ($32/$64), as well as more traditional 8-ounce bavette ($35), up to a 6 ounce filet ($75.) Keeping it more simple than the Burch menu, which had grass-fed and corn-finished… this is just part of the overall menu. I think it still hits the mark on being accessible luxury—it’s not cheap, but it’s approachable.
The cocktail program also offers one of my absolute favorite experiences: There’s a choose-your-own-adventure gin and tonic! Pick your gin, pick your homemade tonic (classic, lavender, or blood orange) and enjoy. Fabulous.
Additionally, I loved the Born to be Spicy ($15) with a fresno-infused tequila, a tamarind liqueur, Thai basil, black pepper, and lime.
The service was as warm, friendly, and fabulous as you’d expect—I think this is a nice upgrade and reboot to Snack Bar. It scratches the itch of the fond memories of the Burch stans, but refreshes it for today. Can’t wait to get back!
St. Pierre Steak & Seafood, 800 N.Washington Ave., Minneapolis, closed Sunday/Monday, stpierrerestaurant.com
