Nico’s Taco & Tequila Bar recently moved into one of those Twin Cities restaurant spaces that seems invariably cursed: It was preceded by Pandora’s Cup, Duplex, and Birdhouse, all of which unceremoniously went the way of the dodo.
The outlook for Nico’s is mixed. The space has the same commendable qualities as always—prominent Hennepin Avenue location, sunny interior, inviting porches on both levels—and the fare should be a draw for Uptowners looking for something nicer than Chipotle but more low-key than Chino Latino.
Nico’s sample flights of house-made salsas (particularly the Ancho Naranja) and jazzy spins on the standard margarita are almost enough to make it destination-worthy. But the titular tacos fall somewhere between adequate to tasty (except the soggy vegetarian cactus variety), which may not be enough to banish the ghosts of failed restaurants past.
2516 Hennepin Ave, Mpls., 612-345-7688, nicostacobar.com
