Ox Cart Ale House Perfects Comfort Cooking

Lowertown pub does the basics right


photo by tj turner

Its location mere steps from CHS Field makes Ox Cart a pre-game go-to, but its takes on pub standards should also hold up through the months when the Saints go dormant. The citrusy scallops and pickle plate stand out among starters, along with a simple but balanced (not to mention rare) oxtail soup. The burgers and fries hold their own, while the Coney Island dog is maybe the highlight of the menu: a classed-up take on a vulgarian classic with chili and potato chips complementing spicy sausage and a bread-slice bun like a hobo in a tuxedo. The arctic char entrée is nothing special, and along with unchallenging game hen and pork suggest that making a meal from the north end of the menu is best. The price points there appeal—combine the soup and Coney Island for $16—along with dialed-in concepts.

oxcartalehouse.com

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Quinton Skinner is a writer and editor based in the Twin Cities. A former senior editor of Minnesota Monthly, he held the same post at Twin Cities METRO and 
has written for major national and local publications. He is the co-founder of Logosphere Storysmiths and author of several novels, including his latest, Odd One Out.