Review: Lyn 65 in Richfield

Chef-driven fare in Richfield

Restaurant Alma alum Ben Rients heads up a quirky team—a framed photo on the bar of Tom Selleck in full Magnum, P.I. regalia guides the kitchen’s dress code—dedicated to bringing good food beyond the metro core (OK, so it’s mere blocks south of the Minneapolis border). The braised short rib exemplifies the mission gone right: The meat falls apart at the touch of a fork and pairs perfectly with roasted Brussels sprouts with caramelized edges designed to entice even the most veggie-averse.

Inconsistencies, such as limp French fries, flat-screen TVs that seem out of place behind the reclaimed-wood bar, and the occasional lack of seasoning, are easier to overlook when digging into Lyn 65’s buttermilk fried chicken, served as all comfort food should be: in a small trough, accompanied by the creamiest of grits and slightly spicy coleslaw. The chicken itself is coated in a rice-flour-and-panko mix before being fried to a perfect crisp—providing a crunch that can probably be heard all the way in Minneapolis. •

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