Plain bagel with green onion schmear and nova lox
photos by tj turner
Jason: So much anticipation for St. Paul restaurateur Tim Niver’s return to Minneapolis. Niver was behind the late, great Town Talk Diner, and after that closed, he made a name for great service and memorable food at Strip Club Meat & Fish, Saint Dinette, and Mucci’s. All in the 651.
Joy: He’s teamed with his Saint Dinette chef Adam Eaton and general manager Laurel Elm for an all-day deli that’s serving, among other things, real-deal wood-fired, Montreal-style bagels.
Jason: The greatest bagels take years to perfect. It’s not easy to consistently get the right amount of yeastiness, sweetness, density, chew, and crunch. Meyvn is on the right track—that kiss of wood fire makes a real difference.
Joy: I adore that crackled dough exterior with the gentle chew inside. There are several schmears and toppings available, mostly made in-house. The classic lox—served with capers, paper-thin onion, tomato, and mizuna greens—is the single best bagel bite to be found outside of New York City.
Jason: Meyvn is sort of a fast-casual restaurant in that you order at the counter and someone brings you your food. The breakfast/lunch menu emphasizes bagels—you can make them sandwiches by adding anything from bacon and eggs to pastrami and corned beef. The price ranges from very low ($2 for a bagel) to high ($14 for a bagel, horseradish schmear, and nova lox). Seems like a lot, but would I pay $14 for a beautiful lox sandwich? I did, and I’ll do it again.
Joy: Don’t skip over those sandwiches! This is a Reuben that demands attention. The corned beef is so tender, and the buttered bread, sauce, kraut, and cheese are all in ideal proportions. In between lunch and dinner is a raw bar selection. Dinner has Mediterranean dishes, including some kicky little falafels. Swipe them through a lush serving of hummus for a harmonious bite of all things awesome.
Jason: So many fun touches! The cheesesteak is better than Geno’s in Philly: Chef Adam Eaton uses ribeye steak and white American cheese. The Midwestern Caviar is hilariously tasty. It’s whitefish roe served on a cafeteria tray with capers, red onion, and egg yolks and whites—each arranged in a row and stacked, like a flag of deliciousness. No fancy crackers or bread here: Meyvn’s caviar is served with Zapp’s potato chips.
Joy: Moving on to dinner, the relaxed vibe and Middle Eastern fare beg for a night out with friends. Just order a ton of dishes, including the slightly spicy falafel, creamy hummus, and plenty of pita with a bottle of affordable wine. The menu at Meyvn hits it right at every hour of the day.
Meyvn Quick Tips
Small parking lot
If you want full service, saddle up; tap cocktails and an interesting wine list, too
Eat In or Out
The menu is built for carry-out
901 W. Lake St., Minneapolis | meyvneats.com