Review: Shag

Restaurateur Michael McDermott adds to his portfolio of global-dining-with-a-twist concepts—Rojo Mexican Grill, Ling & Louie’s—with Shag Sushi Wok Bar, which hustles into the North Loop with 1970s wood-grain paneling and carpet that would leave Erik Estrada speechless. Shag also delivers a tuna-and-quail egg tartare worth repeated ordering, and rolls that stand up to the Cities’ sushi leaders (the yellowtail with scallions has a warm, bracing chili undertow). The cocktails include the Shagarita (with sake as well as tequila), a Singapore Sling incorporating gin the kitchen infuses with chamomile, and a flight of Japanese whiskeys for the adventurous. While the spicy chicken with vegetables and garlic sauce was food-court unexceptional, I’ll return to try the tuna tacos the server encouraged me to order—and I’ll open a couple more buttons on my shirt to better fit in. •

Quinton Skinner is a writer and editor based in the Twin Cities. A former senior editor of Minnesota Monthly, he held the same post at Twin Cities METRO and 
has written for major national and local publications. He is the co-founder of Logosphere Storysmiths and author of several novels, including his latest, Odd One Out.