Sometimes passions change, or refocus. That’s why chef/owner John Kraus told me he’s closing Rose Street Patisserie, in the Linden Hills neighborhood of Minneapolis, on November 3. It’s not because the business has been bad; he says it’s been strong. But with the opening of his new training program, the Bread Lab, in St. Paul, his separate locations have been pulling him in too many directions.
“I love teaching,” Kraus told me. “Too often I’m hearing, ‘Chef, what we really could use is more of you in the kitchen.'” So now the Bread Lab Hub will be that spot.
When Rose Street closes, Martina and Colita chef Daniel del Prado will take over the lease and open a new concept—yet to be announced. (I’m hearing it will include Roman-style pizza. Kraus wouldn’t confirm that, but he said he will be providing some pastries and breads for del Prado’s concept.) Kraus and del Prado shared a building in Linden Hills and spent the last year talking off-and-on about each other’s aspirations. Kraus wanted to teach more. Del Prado was struggling to find a location he liked for a new concept. Right next to Martina may well turn out to be the solution.
“I am so proud of what Rose Street is doing for the trade of baking and pastry, and after our discussions about the future of both of our businesses, things just made sense,” del Prado said in a statement.
Kraus’ other patisserie—Patisserie 46, also in south Minneapolis—stays open, so “we’ll see if people will drive around the lake” from Linden Hills, Kraus says. Patisserie 46 opened in 2010. Six years later, Rose Street Patisserie opened in Linden Hills, and in 2018, Kraus and CEO Elizabeth Rose opened two locations in St. Paul—one on Snelling, plus a cafe and production facility next to Keg and Case Market.
“I’m struggling to find people who want to do the craft of baking,” Kraus says. “The Bread Lab brings me back to that passion.” With this change, he has a training ground; he has room to expand catering and wholesale accounts; and he has better control, focusing on the quality of his products.
So, buck up, Linden Hills! You’re losing a world-class bakery and one of the most beautiful locations for bread and pastries I’ve ever seen. But you’re gaining a bonus—del Prado. And, hopefully, a brighter future for the baking profession in our towns.