Restaurant recommendations from MnMo food critics Jason DeRusha and Joy Summers.
When I was a kid I used to hate chicken because it was “too messy.” And restaurants treated it as a throw-away dish that they were obligated to put on menus for picky eaters. Fortunately, it’s being rightly restored to its place of honor.
Lyn 65: Chef Ben Rients trained at Restaurant Alma, and his buttermilk fried chicken is cured for two days, poached in duck fat, and oh my, I want it right now. Juicy, delicious, maybe the best in town. (Richfield)
The Dirty Bird: This is the most epic roasted chicken around. Chef Erick Harcey brines his bird in chicken stock, then rubs chicken fat mixed with butter under the skin. Sounds rich and decadent? Tastes even better. (Linden Hills, Minneapolis)
Revival’s Fried Chicken
Photo by TJ Turner
I blame my father for my love of the bird. My mom teased that he could happily eat chicken every day of the year and even went so far as to gift him a cookbook with 365 ways to prepare it. From the moment I could pick a favorite, chicken dinner has been my winner.
Revival: We can’t talk about the bird without mentioning the kings of Southern fried in south Minneapolis. Get it buttermilk brined and crispy with your choice of either straightforward Southern (no spice), Tennessee Hot (plenty of spice), or Poultrygeist (horrifying spice). All delicious, some have consequences. (Kingfield, Minneapolis)
The Rabbit Hole: The fried chicken fingers at the Rabbit Hole fulfill my childhood love of crispy, boneless bites with a flavor explosion thanks to a dousing in gochu butter. (Midtown Global Market, Minneapolis)