What to Drink Now

> Rosé

Rosé is the comeback kid of the wine world. The erstwhile love potion of ’60s swingers, rosé became as uncool as a Nehru jacket in the decades that followed. Lately, though, the pink drink seems to be popping up everywhere.

Like the retooled Volkswagen Beetle, rosé is reclaiming its reputation in a new guise. Gone—or at least mostly forgotten—are the sickeningly sweet concoctions that once held sway in the U.S. market. Taking their place are dry yet bracingly fresh wines that are worthy of serious attention. Not too serious, though. Rosé remains the quintessential summer sipper, perfectly at home on the patio or poolside.

Dry rosés are as much a part of life in France’s Provencal region as lavender. Mas de Gourgonnier, one of 70 or so rosés on the racks at Solo Vino, hails from the village of Mouries, renowned for its olive oil (which the winery also produces). Made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsaut, Grenache Blanc, and a smattering of other grapes—all organically grown—this rosé has a dazzling coppery-pink color and bursts with flavors of strawberries and spice. Now that’s far out.

Mas de Gourgonnier Rosé 2006, $16.99, at Solo Vino, 517 Selby Ave., St. Paul, 651-602-9515