What to Drink Now

Soave Classico

Soave suffers from a couple of unfortunate associations. One is the laughably lame Spanglish rap song “Rico Suave,” conjured up by the Italian white wine’s name. Another is the ocean of insipid plonk bearing the Soave label that washed up in the 1970s. Some producers have since abandoned the name Soave altogether, hoping to avoid being tarred by the same brush as the generic junk.

All of which is a shame. Made mostly from Garganega grapes grown near Verona in the Veneto region, Soave—and particularly Soave Classico, from the heart of the appellation—has benefited enormously in recent years from greater attention to premium practices such as low-yield farming and minimal filtering.

Inama’s Soave Classico shows just how good this wine can be when properly made. With a lemony aroma and a honeyed palate tinged with a mineral streak, it’s consistently fine year after year—proving that Soave is more than just a one-hit wonder.

Inama Soave Classico 2006, $15.95, Hennepin-Lake Liquors, 1200 W. Lake St., Mpls., 612-825-4411