Photo by John Brandon
There’s a winter wonderland about two hours south of the Twin Cities that’s a bit unheralded. Situated right next to the Root River in southern Minnesota, with a population of around 800 residents, Lanesboro is known as a mecca for cyclists, who eat, sleep, and then bike on the Root River Trail that runs right through town. In the winter, that same “vacation destination” vibe continues, with many inns, shops, and even a theater still open for cold-weather visitors.
Snowfall has been minimal over the last two years in Lanesboro (and all across the southern part of the state), but in December of this year, the area experienced greater accumulations. While outdoor enthusiasts in Lanesboro typically wear biking gear and bring along a transport mechanism with two wheels, this time of year, the best way to get around is with skis and poles.
“Lanesboro is peaceful and beautiful, kind of like a Hallmark town from the movies, because of the lights you see from high above when you are coming down the hill,” says Karen Heimdahl, who owns Sylvan Brewing with her husband, Andy. She says summer is “crazy busy,” but winter is calm and peaceful, with many outdoor things to do, including ice skating on the local pond and even fishing the open tributaries for trout.
The Root River Trail is open all winter, although a Department of Natural Resources (DNR) representative tells me that the “official” ski portion is about 25 miles long, running from the Isinours state forest unit near Preston all the way to Rushford. The DNR grooms the trail only when there are two snowfalls of 6 inches or more, but you can ski any time, even when the trail is not groomed. You’ll need a cross-country ski pass; it’s $10 for the day or $25 for the year. The DNR lists trail conditions throughout the state, including for the Root River Trail.
I’ve visited the area five or six times to bike the trail with my wife, Rebecca, but this time, I decided to strap on my ski boots and don a ski mask instead for a two-day sojourn.
Making the Winter Trek to Lanesboro
I arrived on a Monday and headed right out on the trail in the late afternoon. A flock of geese soared over my head, honking like they were clearing traffic as I glided over a bridge, heading west past Juniper’s Restaurant, one of the few establishments that was closed during my stay. I felt a surge of energy as fresh winter air filled my lungs. Around that first bend, there was a rocky cliff that reminded me of being in Taylors Falls or up north near Tettegouche State Park.
I strode along with surprising gusto, as though I were ready to ski all the way to Preston, which is about 10.5 miles southwest. In reality, I lasted about 3 miles on the trail before the sun drifted below the ridgeline and I headed back to town, ready to rest up for day two.
I tend to drink too much coffee and mostly skip the libations, but that evening I headed over to Sylvan Brewing in downtown Lanesboro to meet the owners, taste-test a few beers, and munch on pretzels. The brewery opened a few years ago, and the story of its inception is about as Minnesotan as you can get. Co-owner Andy Heimdahl tells me there was a rumor spreading around town that someone was going to open a local brewery, so they took the bait. “We thought it would be funny if we ended up competing with ourselves,” he says with a laugh.
Photo by John Brandon
Located in a converted grain mill, the atmosphere was classic small town: A couple sat playing board games in the corner. The Scale Room looks picture perfect, like it could host a wedding reception. The name has a double meaning: Grain cars pulled in to be weighed on a scale long ago, but the room also “scales” for larger crowds and events. You can still see the chutes and pulleys.
That night, I stayed at the Root River Inn near the ski trail. Owners Ryan and Allie Palmer graciously let me stay in the floor-level Chosen Valley Suite, which runs about $170 per night. The suite is suited for winter guests, with a large furnace and an electric fireplace. Another option is the Cottage House Inn (the historic Hotel Lanesboro is closed for the winter).
Photo by John Brandon
The next morning, I skied northeast toward Whalan, one of my favorite biking destinations in the summer—and not just because of the Aroma Pie Shoppe (sadly, also closed for the winter), which serves one of the best strawberry rhubarb pies I’ve ever tasted.
The Root River Trail used to be a rail line, so it’s reasonably flat but remarkably scenic. Hardcore cross-country skiers tend to prefer changes in elevation, but I like long-distance trips, trekking from one town to another as an endurance test, rather than skiing at a dedicated resort.
By mid-morning, I had made it all the way to Whalan, about 5 miles away. I stopped to sip some water and eat beef jerky, then headed back to Lanesboro. Mission accomplished. For lunch, I stopped at the Pedal Pushers Cafe in Lanesboro. The beef and gravy sandwich was delicious, topped off with some draft root beer. Before I hit the road home, I grabbed some fresh brew at Paddle On Coffee, which also caters to winter visitors looking for a place to warm up.
Things to Keep in Mind
One quick word about the gear you use. If the Root River Trail is not groomed, you might consider using backcountry skis, like the Salomon Outpath 65 Grip, which are slightly wider and have better grip than normal skis. I tested them with matching backcountry poles.
For a more challenging ski adventure, the nearby Eagle Bluff Environmental Learning Center has about 10 miles of ski trails with more twists, turns, and slopes.
Lanesboro is a picturesque city surrounded by surprisingly high cliffs, a winter hideaway only about 38 miles due south of Rochester. Everyone I met was gracious and accommodating, as though I really had stepped into a Hallmark movie—holiday lights and all.
Courtesy of the Lanesboro Area Chamber of Commerce
