Courtesy of Viking Cruises
It’s raining—well, it’s pouring buckets—and my daughter Olivia and I smile, take a selfie with a red Viking Cruises umbrella as our backdrop, and get soaked.
We are in San Juan, Puerto Rico, with six other passengers. Arriving a little over two hours prior to boarding our ship, the Viking Sea, we were on our first excursion of the nine-island, 11-day West Indies Explorer cruise, a voyage through the Caribbean that would include stops in Tortola, St. Kitts, St. Lucia, Barbados, Dominica, Antigua, St. Martin, and St. Thomas.
Before the downpour, we walked in the Old City along the narrow, centuries-old UNESCO World Heritage Site streets lined with brick and stone buildings dating to the 16th and 17th centuries—when Puerto Rico was a Spanish possession. The roads are paved with steel-blue adoquín stone, used as ballast in the Spanish galleons that brought settlers here.
We passed the San Juan Gate, an impressive remnant of the 3-mile wall that once encircled the city, and the Cathedral de San Juan Bautista, the oldest cathedral in the United States. When it started raining, we huddled under a tree and finally walked to an archway for better shelter as a foot of water cascaded through its entrance. About 30 residents and tourists waited in the makeshift shelter for the rain to lessen. Everyone was smiling at our situation, setting the tone for the next 11 days—no matter the weather, we would have a good time.
When the rain stopped, we walked to Hotel El Convento, which dates to 1646, when construction began on the Carmelite convent through a petition by King Philip IV of Spain. Our last stop was a small cafe where friendly staff served us rum punch before returning to the ship.
Photo by Marilyn Jones
All Aboard the Viking Sea
The rain continued into the next day: a thunderous storm with heavy downpour. Our plans to take a walk to the island’s famous Castillo San Cristóbal, the largest fortress built by Spain in the New World, turned into a day on the ship.
Viking ships are peaceful, serene, and quiet. The Viking Sea was tastefully decorated with blonde wood and brass, and there were many places to sit and relax with a book. There were no casinos or jazzercise classes in the atrium—the cruise is not high-energy, but rather, a place to hang your hat when you’re not exploring the ports, although there are events such as historian talks, port talks, afternoon tea in the Wintergarden, and entertainment in the theater.
Photo by Marilyn Jones
Plus, you can swim in the main pool and infinity pool, use the spa’s sauna, snow grotto, and fitness center; get your hair cut and styled; or schedule a massage or facial. For those looking to get active, the Sports Deck offers a walking track, bocce ball, putting green, and shuffleboard.
Every stateroom has a veranda with a sliding glass door, so guests can go outside to enjoy their morning cup of coffee or take photos as they enter a port. Our 270-square-foot Deluxe Veranda stateroom had everything we needed for a comfortable journey, and if it didn’t, our room steward did his best to get it for us.
There were only 930 passengers, making the ship small enough to enter ports that larger ships can’t navigate. We often docked at the town’s edge, which allowed us to explore the city without worrying about additional transportation.
For casual dining, World Café offers several meal options in a help-yourself atmosphere, and Mamsen’s has Norwegian specialties for breakfast, lunch, an afternoon snack, or an evening treat. Just want to put your feet up and relax? There’s also 24-hour room service.
For a more upscale dining experience, there is The Restaurant, where no reservations are needed; The Chef’s Table, offering food and wine pairings during a multicourse tasting; and Manfredi’s Italian Restaurant, which requires reservations.
Courtesy of Viking Cruises
Nature and History in the West Indies
The sun shone when we arrived in Tortola, British Virgin Islands, and all was right with the world.
Navigating narrow roadways and mountainous terrain, we traveled in small vans at every port—which also meant smaller groups, a real plus. We headed along Ridge Road, which forms a spine along Tortola’s uppermost heights. The island offers breathtaking views of sapphire and azure waters and thick flora, and we climbed out of the van several times to take photos of the terrain, white sandy beaches, and the sea below.
On every island, the history was similar: Indigenous people lived on the island, were enslaved, or died of diseases brought by the Europeans. Our guide told us Christopher Columbus first saw the Virgin Islands in 1493, and a century later, the English established a permanent sugarcane plantation colony (which depended on the labor of enslaved African people) here and on the surrounding islands. The sugar industry dominated the economy for more than a century until the abolition of slavery in the early 1800s.
Our last stop was Cane Garden Bay, situated on the north shore of Tortola. The palm-lined beach with its lapping waters was the perfect end to our excursion—guests could swim, lounge along the water’s edge, or enjoy rum punch in the restaurant.
Next, our journey took us to St. Kitts (it and the neighboring island of Nevis constitute one country: the Federation of St. Christopher and Nevis, which gained independence from Britain in 1983), which we learned was home to the first Caribbean British and French colonists in the mid-1620s. Our destination that day was Montpelier Plantation, a 300-year-old sugar mill. The house on site accurately showed what the plantation was like for the owners—on the first floor, there was a recreated dining room, kitchen, and sitting room, with a bedroom on the second floor offering a water view. Outside, we followed a stone bridge to the lush tropical botanical garden, where many of the plants dated to the 1700s.
Photo by Marilyn Jones
After arriving at our next port, Barbados, we visited St. John’s Parish Church, initially built in 1645 but destroyed by fire and a hurricane. The current church, a beautiful Gothic-inspired building, dates to 1836, offering an up-close look at the island’s rich history.
Hunte’s Gardens was our afternoon destination, and what a fun time we had. Anthony Hunte, the 90-something-year-old owner and developer of the property, was our guide. The area he chose to develop was once a collapsed cave, which made the gardens seem like they were in a valley. Small intimate gardens connected by pathways lined with statues, lush greenery, and flowers took us on an adventure as we explored the area.
A Day in Dominica
Visiting the island-nation of Dominica was one of my favorite parts of the cruise. We started the day by visiting Abilities Unlimited, a local craft workshop that helps the blind and visually impaired learn skills, showcase their talents, and earn an income by producing beautifully crafted baskets and other items. Several women were sitting around a long, narrow table stocked with souvenirs and baskets—some finished and some in the works.
Photo by Marilyn Jones
I admired the intricate baskets that lined the shelves as one woman explained how the workshop helps those with eyesight limitations—my daughter and I each purchased a small basket to remember and support the craftswomen we met.
A short distance away is the Dominica Botanical Gardens, located in the compact capital city of Roseau. Here, we walked through the garden, highlighted by flowering shrubs alive with hummingbirds, a bamboo room where a circle of bamboo stems joined to create a roof, and a giant African baobab tree toppled by Hurricane David in 1979—it smashed a school bus that still rests there today. Later, we stopped to admire the views at Morne Bruce, a hillside enclave overlooking Roseau, the gardens, and our ship.
In the afternoon, we headed for Jacko Falls, one of the island’s most breathtaking waterfalls. Dominica is nicknamed the “Nature Island of the Caribbean” for its natural environment for good reason. On our way to the falls, we passed swathes of thick green vegetation sprinkled with colorful flowers.
Jacko Falls is known for its impressive 200-foot height, stunning beauty, and tranquil setting. A staircase leads visitors on a short scenic hike through the tropical rainforest to the waterfall’s base. The area around the falls is a natural paradise, with diverse plant and animal life to discover.
The Grand Finale: Antigua and St. Thomas
In Antigua, we marveled at one of my favorite views of the trip: Shirley Heights Lookout, a restored military lookout and gun battery situated on a sheer cliff 446 feet above the English and Falmouth harbors. The view of the sparkling water and rainforest was spectacular.
Nelson’s Dockyard, one of the Caribbean’s most celebrated sites and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, was also on this tour. The Dockyard, named after British naval commander Horatio Nelson, is the last remaining Georgian Dockyard still in use. Here, we explored Admiral’s Inn, an excellent museum and art gallery, and a few shops. Then, we walked along the water, where impressive yachts lined the old stone quay.
Photo by Marilyn Jones
St. Thomas, U.S. Virgin Islands, marked the end of the adventure. We would sail into San Juan, Puerto Rico, the next day and return home. I had been to this island on another cruise, but this experience was different—the beauty of travel. I was impressed with the route our driver/guide took, as we stopped frequently to overlook the enchanting hills covered in emerald-green trees and the fantastic sea with myriad shades of blue.
The highlight was Mountain Top, located 2,100 feet above sea level, where we had a spectacular view of Magens Bay. Afterward, we asked our driver to drop us off in Charlotte Amalie so we could shop and enjoy the rest of the day.
It was a delightful 11 days on the water, and I was sorry to see it end. Hopefully, there will be more cruises in the future.
If You Go
Reservations for the West Indies Explorer cruise are currently available for December 2025, 2026, and 2027. Viking also offers river and expedition cruises. For more information, visit vikingcruises.com or call 877-523-0579.
This story was originally published in Minnesota Monthly’s 2025 Ultimate Travel Guide—read the online edition here.
