What are the top donuts in the Twin Cities? For many years we had a stable, static, staid, but otherwise satisfactory donut situation around here: People from Minneapolis went to Mel-O-Glaze for glazed and raised donuts, or to A Baker’s Wife’s Pastry Shop for cake donuts, and if you were from St. Paul, you muttered about how clueless people in Minneapolis were, because if they knew anything they’d get both from Granny Donuts. But that all changed with the opening of YoYo Donuts in Minnetonka, a crazy wonderful donut shop with real bacon on the Maple Long Johns and real gummy worms crawling from the Worms and Dirt Donut. Actually, the bacon is remarkably good and natural on a Maple Long John—it’s not just gimmicky. The bacon goes quite well with the maple syrup taste of the frosting. I also had a S’mores Donut with a real toasted marshmallow in the middle, and my kids were utterly charmed by the worm in the worms and dirt one. YoYo Donuts also take their coffee very seriously. They brew third-wave Dogwood coffee (and use Dogwood espresso for the espresso-glazed donuts). Jealous? If you’re a commercial real estate landlord or a city elder, take heed: Owner Chris Moquist told me he has just begun a search for YoYo’s second location. Will it be in a skyway near you? (Oh, and brides, take heed, Moquist also told me he just had a bride in for a sprinkle-matching session, because in place of a cake she will be offering donuts to her guests—donuts in shades matching her flowers and dress.)
But that’s not the end of local donut developments! In the beginning of October we’re getting a new donut shop, a locavore establishment with its eyes on economic justice and coastal donut developments. This new shop is called the Donut Cooperative, and it is opening in the former Cake Eater (and former former Cliquot Café space) in Seward. I talked to the founder, Dawn Otwell, and she told me about the new joint. First, about that name: There are currently three worker-owners in the Cooperative, and Otwell plans to hire more workers, who, once they finish a trial period, will be part-owners of the business, sharing in profits and participating in decisions. Otwell is taking inspiration for her business from the years she spent working at the St. Paul Mississippi Market and from local bike-worker cooperative The Hub. Because the hierarchy of the business is diffuse, there is no “baker” and no “owner” at the Donut Cooperative. Otwell told me that everyone is a baker, and everyone is responsible for the recipes and ideas. Donut recipes like: Donuts filled with house-made peach curd, or cherries harvested from a South Minneapolis backyard and turned into donuts. But the Donut Cooperative will not have merely donuts, they’ll have sandwiches (like prosciutto and butter, on house-made baguettes, or roast beet, goat cheese, and beet green, or vegan cashew-paté based sandwiches), as well as mini quiches, muffins, scones, and of course coffee (Otwell hadn’t yet settled on a coffee vendor as of this writing) lightened with dairy from local farms. Otwell will also be offering a CSD to customers–that’s the concept of Community Supported Donuts, of course. In this instance you’ll be able to buy a “share” and have donuts delivered to, say, your standing Thursday sales meeting.
So, come November or so, the best donut in the Twin Cities story gets a lot more interesting, and every interested citizen will be required to drive in a giant loop around the metro sampling, dunking, and deciding for themselves who wears the top donut crown in the Twin Cities.
Mel-O-Glaze
4800 28th Ave. S., Mpls.
612-729-9316
meloglaze.com
A Baker’s Wife’s Pastry Shop
4200 28 Ave S., Mpls,
612-729-6898
facebook.com/aBakersWife
YoYo Donuts & Coffee Bar
5757 Sanibel Dr., Minnetonka
952-960-1800
yoyodonuts.com
Granny’s Donuts
1555 Robert St. S., St. Paul
grannydonut.com
Donut Cooperative
2929 E. 25th St., Mpls.
thedonutcooperative.com
