Café Levain

Back, again!

Two years ago, south Minneapolis started to get very interesting with the establishment of young chef Adam Vickerman at Trattoria Tosca, the restaurant at the Linden Hills Turtle Bread, and Remle Colestock at Café Levain, the restaurant at the Chicago Avenue Turtle Bread. Interesting because Vickerman, now 25, and Colestock, now 31, not only have bone-deep commitments to ingredient-first locavore cooking, but also remarkable grace when it comes to assembling ingredients into something delicious. And they’re back! Vickerman, who’s lately been at Sea Change, and Colestock, lately at Haute Dish, have joined forces behind the stoves at Levain, with a goal of resuming where they left off. An early visit revealed Vickerman’s still got it: the asparagus soup with roasted mushrooms was springy and fresh; the swordfish with brown butter showed off Vickerman’s elegant way with fish, something he picked up at Sea Change. The Sunday suppers, prix fixe dinners for either $25 (meat or fish) or $20 (vegetarian) are back to their previously vivacious and creative levels. Café Levain has been the most on-again, off-again of all Minneapolis restaurants, but please know it’s on again. On like a bright, bright light.

Café Levain, 4762 Chicago Ave., Mpls., 612-823-7111,