photo by Christa Tousley
When I stood on the rocky beach of Grand Marais Harbor last summer, where blue water extended as far as my eyes could see and sailboats danced on the horizon, it was easy to believe I was standing at the ocean’s shore. In reality, I was gazing at Lake Superior—the largest of the five Great Lakes (with a surface area of over 31,700 square miles) and the deep-blue backyard of Grand Marais, a 1,337-person harbor village nestled between the scenic Sawtooth Mountains and the rugged, picturesque North Shore.
Voted “America’s Best Small Lake Town” by Travel + Leisure in 2023, this northern haven draws over 1.2 million visitors annually, offering an appealing dichotomy of experiences between four state parks, the glistening Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness, and a quirky, thriving arts community.
But long before it was making headlines, Grand Marais was the birthplace of my great-grandmother, Irene Peterson, who was born on a frigid January night in 1921. Even at 104 years old, she never missed an opportunity to brag about the small-yet-enchanting town she called home all her life. And every time we piled our six-person family (and three large dogs) in the car to visit her, winding along the scenic curves of Highway 61 as flat grasslands gave way to jagged cliffs overlooking an endless sea of blue, I was reminded of why she never left.
Into my adulthood, the nostalgic lakeside escape has remained one of my favorite places to visit—a town bursting at the seams with artists, adventurers, fishermen, sailors, artisans, and kind-hearted, northern-minded locals. Inspiration is never in short supply, between the colorful art galleries dotting the streets and the ever-present air of mystery that pervades Lake Superior’s windswept waters. (It’s estimated by the Great Lakes Shipwreck Historical Society that there have been between 500 and 600 shipwrecks on Lake Superior alone, a topic that remains a constant point of fascination among visitors.)
To get a taste of this inspiration for yourself, follow our summer travel guide highlighting the most naturally breathtaking and culturally significant aspects of Grand Marais—an itinerary which, although not curated by great-grandma herself (who, up until her recent passing, was the oldest person alive in Cook County), would surely still warm her North Shore-raised heart.
photo by David Johnson
Artistry Without Bounds
It is impossible to experience Grand Marias’ local culture without immersing yourself in its vibrant, deeply entrenched arts scene. It’s fueled in part by the Grand Marias Art Colony, the state’s oldest art colony, established in 1947, which offers eclectic year-round programming ranging from after-school youth classes and independent residencies to rotating exhibitions and community-wide events. Among these events is the Grand Marais Arts Festival (July 12-13), an anticipated summer celebration that decorates the city’s downtown with locally made art of many mediums, encapsulating the raw talent and thriving support that shapes the town’s arts and crafts community.
Provided by Visit Cook County
When you walk along the shoreline of Lake Superior, it’s hard to miss the charming red and yellow buildings of the North House Folk School, an educational nonprofit that immerses students in the crafting traditions and cultural heritage of the North. Inspired by Scandinavian folkehøjskolers (folk high schools), the learning center offers diverse crafting programs that range from knitting and woodwork to fly tying, intensive sailing courses, and community events. At the school’s gift shop, visitors can take in the impressive artisanship of students and instructors, where handmade products including jewelry, woodwork, tools, knives, clothing, ceramics, and Scandinavian knickknacks are for sale.
You can also hop between the city’s many open art galleries, where you will encounter paintings, sculptures, murals, and installations that tell stories of the area’s rugged landscapes and exploratory spirit. Sivertson Gallery is a free and open-daily gallery that collects what its owners call “the art of the North”—original artworks that reflect Lake Superior’s “beauty, environment, history, and people.” To experience Grand Marais’ craft-centric charm, stop into Betsy Bowen Studio, a family-owned printmaking studio and gallery housed in a historic church, exhibiting an array of handmade woodblock prints depicting recognizable scenes from the Northwoods.
Provided by Visit Cook County
The Grand Outdoors
With miles of rugged hiking trails, cascading waterfalls, intricate canoe routes, and dense forests, Grand Marais is an adventurer’s paradise. Situated at the end of the eastern harbor breakwater, the white-and-copper Grand Marais Lighthouse is a living postcard for the town, and often the first sight to greet visitors, calling them to venture beyond Lake Superior’s rocky shoreline. Built in 1885, the structure has become a symbol of Grand Marais’ nautical spirit and is easily accessible by the concrete-constructed breakwater that leads to its base. Another gateway to Lake Superior is nearby Artist’s Point, a natural flat-rock peninsula that extends out onto the frigid water (regardless of the season, the lake’s average temperature is 42 degrees). The tucked-away lookout makes the perfect picnic spot, providing an afternoon of escape as you relax into the North Shore’s prevailing soundtrack of crashing freshwater and singing gulls.
Provided by Visit Cook County
But these two stone-carved lookouts are not the only ways to immerse yourself in the majesty of Lake Superior. From late May to early October, the North House Folk School offers daily sailing sessions aboard the Hjørdis, a 50-foot steel schooner named after the mythical Norse goddess of war. Led by experienced captains, the rides weave through the most breathtaking points of the largest lake in the world (by surface area), allowing passengers to take in the beauty of Grand Marais’ shoreline from the open water. You can choose to adventure out during the day or opt for a sunrise or sunset sail to watch vibrant colors paint the open waves.
For the Active Explorers
Exercise enthusiasts will enjoy jogging, biking, or walking along the 86-mile Gitchi-Gami State Trail, a paved trail that weaves along Lake Superior’s coastline and connects to five state parks. Running from Two Harbors to Grand Marais, the diverse route touches on some of the North Shore’s most stunning natural landmarks and offers plenty of rest points to wander off-trail and explore.
If you prefer paddling to pedaling, the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness (BWCAW) will be your little slice of heaven. Named one of the “50 Places of a Lifetime” by National Geographic Traveler, the BWCAW is a marvelous network of 1,500 miles of canoe routes extending over 1,000 lakes, rivers, and streams. Known as one of the country’s most remote wilderness areas, you can paddle through the serene stillness until you reach one of its 2,000 designated campsites, where, if you’re lucky, you may just experience the swirling glow of the northern lights.
Photo by On3 Photography
To round out your outdoor experience, take notes from Grand Marais’ deeply rooted Scandinavian heritage and hit the sauna. Located on the east bay of Lake Superior, Sisu + Löyly Nordic Sauna is the first floating sauna open to the public in the United States, a truly serene experience that melds Grand Marais’ rugged natural beauty with its Nordic-inspired koselig or “cozy” culture. Follow the traditional Nordic sauna bathing practice (hot, cold, rest, repeat) by transitioning between the heated sauna and the chilly waters of Lake Superior. The rejuvenating wellness cycle is known to reduce inflammation, relieve pain, improve moods, enhance mental clarity, and reduce the risk of cardiovascular disease.
Provided by Sisu + Löyly
Calling All Foodies
No trip to Grand Marais is complete without a visit to World’s Best Donuts. The longtime family-operated bakery draws visitors from across the country to its red-and-white, cottage-like exterior. Try its famed powdered sugar cake doughnut, ranked among the best doughnuts in the U.S. by Tasting Table in 2023. Pair it with a cup of joe from nearby Java Moose Cafe, a cozy and spacious coffee shop where locals catch up over house-brewed espresso and expansive harbor views. For a taste of Lake Superior, stop into The Fisherman’s Daughter at Dockside Fish & Seafood Market, a lakeside spot that serves fresh dock-to-table fare including fish and chips, clam strips, and fish tacos. Hungry Hippie Tacos, dubbed the “home of the Northern taco,” is another local staple, serving bold taco creations that encapsulate the flavors and spirit of the North Shore.
Photo by Emma Enebak
