Playful Pastries

Three Travail Collective alumni turn church basement potlucks into pastries

What happens when three former Travail Collective colleagues start their own bakery? The Midwestern pastry magic of Dahlia in Northeast Minneapolis. Owners Alex Althoff, Nat Moser, and Sarah Julson started the bakery as a pop-up back in 2022—you might have caught their flaky treats gracing the shelves of local spots like Wild Grind Coffee (now closed), Càphin Mpls, Marty’s Deli, Oro by Nixta, or Saturday Dumpling Co. Now, Dahlia has its very own brick-and-mortar shop in Northeast, sharing a space with MN Nice Cream.

Dahlia’s pastries are unmatched—and at risk of selling out.

Photo by TJ Turner

What’s Up? 

It’s bakery by day, creamery by night in the Dahlia/MN Nice Cream space on the corner of Broadway and Quincy streets. You can delight in Dahlia’s sweet and savory creations before 1 p.m. Thursday through Sunday. Althoff, Moser, and Julson’s collective skills make them a formidable team—Althoff brings the lamination know-how and pastry creativity, Moser has the fine-dining finesse, and Julson ties it all together with a background in art, design, marketing, and operations. Get there quick—pastries are limited and often sell out.

What’s Cooking? 

You can find a variety of classic and specialty baked goods, espresso drinks with house-made syrups like the Banana Miel, and savory brunch and lunch items on the menu. When it comes to Dahlia’s signature flavors, three words sum up the concept: playful Midwestern nostalgia. “For example, our salmon toast,” says Moser. “Everybody likes smoked salmon and cream cheese in Minnesota. We’re playing off that Norwegian background.” Specialty pastries of the past have included the Midwestern Snicker Salad Croissant, a nod to the church basement potluck.

But it’s not all Midwestern frills—Dahlia holds its own when it comes to the classics. The ham and cheese croissant leaves you wanting more, topped with everything bagel seasoning and with perfectly crispy gruyere edges, while the kouign amann is sizable with a soft, caramelly middle. For me, the Caramel Morning Bun took the cake for best pastry—the brown butter, cinnamon, and salty caramel combo was an explosion of flavor. And don’t miss the Le Bistro breakfast sandwich (add the bacon!), a perfectly seasoned baked egg sandwich on a soft, house-made milk bun. To boot, most of Dahlia’s baked goods are made using sourdough for boosted flavor.

Where It’s At 

Dahlia is set within the Highlight Center on the edge of the Northeast Minneapolis Arts District in a colorful, upbeat, and approachable—albeit small—space. This isn’t the kind of bakery where you’re going to post up for hours on the laptop (there is no guest Wi-Fi), but, rather, one you’ll stroll to with friends, grab some fun new pastries to try, and continue your weekend adventures. A playlist of Millennial pop throwbacks added to the friendly atmosphere when I was there, and it was clear that staff and customers alike were having a good time. To me, that says it all.