Photo by Eric Hanson
Some destinations have perfect weather all year long. Others offer seasonal sensations but go quiet during the off-season. With its natural beauty and stunning surroundings, the Banff/Lake Louise Region in Alberta, Canada, amid the Canadian Rockies is a four-season spot.
Visitors to Banff National Park—Canada’s first national park and a UNESCO World Heritage Site—can hike scenic trails or fish pristine lakes in summer, admire vibrant foliage in fall, enjoy world-class skiing and snowboarding in winter, and capture blooming fields and wildlife in spring.
Earlier this year, my family and I enjoyed a quick four-day trip to the cities of Banff and nearby Lake Louise, primarily to ski all three of the area’s famous resorts and to set aside time for some spectacular sightseeing. It was my first visit to the area and, while we went in the winter, I now know I want to go back during the summer to check out how the remarkable scenery changes.
Photo by Amy Nelson
A three-hour direct flight from Minnesota to Calgary, Alberta, started our trip. Most visitors to the region fly first into Calgary or smaller Edmonton and rent a car or reserve shuttle space. While our Delta flights from Minneapolis-St. Paul International Airport weren’t the cheapest we could find, we knew the baggage fees for our skis would add up quickly. Our daughter and her boyfriend, who both live in Winnipeg, took advantage of the discount Canadian airline WestJet and joined us in Calgary for $100 each.
From the metropolis of Calgary (pop. 1.3 million), it’s about a 90-minute drive west to the tiny town of Banff (pop. 8,000). We landed at night, so we did not get to see much of Calgary nor the majestic mountains that rise up along the route as we drove the snowy roads. The unfamiliar drive at night in an unfamiliar rental minivan was a bit harrowing, with road signs warning drivers to watch for moose and avalanches. We knew a park permit was required for our vehicle, but the pay booths were closed when we arrived at night, so we bought one at the tourist center in Banff the next morning for $60.
We arrived at the boutique Elk + Avenue hotel in Banff at about 11 p.m. and immediately fell in love with the area’s winter charm and ski town vibe. The main drag reminded us of Bozeman, Montana, or Vail, Colorado, and was busy with (mostly) college-aged groups bar-hopping. We were relieved to find some pizza by the slice and hoagies at Aardvark Pizza & Sub, a tiny but popular walk-up spot with the late-night crowd. I was grateful there were some eateries open that late on a weeknight—most other towns that size would have closed hours earlier, and we’d be stuck eating snacks from the hotel’s vending machines.
The next morning, when we finally got up and opened the hotel blinds, we were all wowed by the gorgeous blue sky and beautiful mountain scenery that we had missed on the night drive. I immediately started taking photos, even though I knew the views would only improve. I was not wrong. Seeing those views from our room, we were ready to hit the slopes.
Photo by Shannon Martin
Skiing the Big Three
The three main ski hills in the area—collectively branded as Ski Big 3—are Mt. Norquay Ski Resort, Lake Louise Ski Resort & Summer Gondola, and Banff Sunshine Village. We enjoyed hosted ski passes at them all, exhausting ourselves by the final full day. As the least experienced skier in our group, I chose Mt. Norquay for our first full day of skiing. While it definitely has fewer lifts and smaller runs than the other resorts, it was the perfect place for a novice to feel confident skiing in the Canadian Rockies. Just a few miles from downtown Banff, we decided to take the convenient shuttle bus from our hotel instead of driving and had to wait as a group of mountain goats cleared the road.
At Mt. Norquay, I began on the bunny hill with kids and some other beginners. Meanwhile, my family enjoyed the perfectly groomed trails. They noted there was something for every skill level, and the mountain boasts six lifts, 60 runs spanning over 190 acres, and 1,650-foot vertical elevation.
Mt. Norquay also offers snow tubing with “some of the longest lanes in Alberta” and weekend night skiing, which the other resorts don’t. As the day wound down, I got up the nerve to go on the chairlift with my family and leisurely skied the hills at my pace, feeling quite proud of my accomplishments.
The next day, we drove about 45 minutes to Lake Louise for more skiing and an hour of ice skating on the famous lake known for its turquoise waters in the summer—if you’ve seen one image of Banff and Lake Louise, it’s likely of this vibrant mountainside oasis. Lake Louise Ski Resort was packed with families and expert skiers enjoying the eight lifts, 145 trails, 3,250-foot vertical elevation, and miles-long runs. It was my son’s favorite of the three resorts.
Photo by ROAM Creative
When the slopes closed at 4:30 p.m., we drove back toward Banff Sunshine Village for a hosted stay at the Sunshine Mountain Lodge—the only ski-in/ski-out lodging in Banff National Park—about a 20-minute gondola ride from the base and at 7,200 feet elevation. We excitedly pointed out frozen waterfalls oozing from the sheer mountainsides and tricky ski runs crisscrossing the area as we continued to climb higher and higher and higher.
Finally, at the resort’s gondola stop (about two-thirds up the entire mountain), we walked to dinner as our luggage and equipment followed us in a different gondola to be delivered to our rooms. Later that night, we played board games in the lodge’s family room and relaxed under the stars in the hot tub, feeling like we were on top of the world. We wanted to be some of the first in line for the chairlifts when they opened at 9 a.m., but many others had the same idea, and it was controlled chaos for the first hour or so. Even the green runs looked challenging to me (my kids confirmed they were), so I took the gondola back down and spent the day exploring more of Banff. Still, this final day of skiing was the favorite for my husband and daughter.
Photo by Reuben Krabbe
Off the Slopes
Beyond the winter-specific activities, we hit some sites that can be experienced year-round. First was the Banff Gondola to the top of Sulphur Mountain, operated by hospitality and attractions company Pursuit. The 10-minute private ride offers breathtaking views of the area, perfect for videos and photos. At the summit, visitors can learn the geography and history in the impressive interpretive center, walk the boardwalk to Sanson’s Peak or hike the more challenging trails, check out a film in the center’s theater, and dine at one of four restaurants and snack bars.
We timed our ride right before sunset and watched the mountains light up in an array of pinks and purples over dinner at the fine-dining Sky Bistro restaurant. The smoked Old Fashioned cocktail is served tableside under a cloche of swirling smoke for an impressive presentation and delicious drink. We also enjoyed a wide variety of flavors and combinations with Scotch eggs, pistachio pate, and smoked duck breast. While both Lake Louise and Sunshine Village also offer summer gondola tours, Banff Gondola is not connected to any resorts.
A visit to the world-famous Fairmont Banff Springs is also a must-do—it’s so popular that it offers daily tours explaining its history and significance to the area. We learned that the opulent “Castle in the Rockies” opened in 1888 as one of Canada’s railway hotels and was owned by the Canadian Pacific Railway. In fact, the president of the railway during that time, George Stephen, named the area after his birthplace of Banff, Scotland.
Photo by ROAM Creative
When some explorers found hot springs nearby, the chateau rose in prominence to wealthy international travelers looking to enjoy the rejuvenating mineral-rich waters. After the original wooden structure burned in 1926, construction of a replacement quickly started. Too bad crews built that structure backward—facing away from the breathtaking mountain views, our guide told us. As part of the Fairmont’s upscale dining options, we followed our tour with an hour-long high tea, selecting from a menu of curated teas and enjoying delicious finger sandwiches and decadent desserts. It was fascinating to explore and imagine what life was like there nearly 140 years ago, when travel to another country wasn’t as easy as getting on a three-hour plane ride for a four-day visit.
