Amy Nelson
Taylor Swift’s song “august” is the perfect soundtrack for an end-of-summer getaway. With the lyrics “I can see us lost in the memory; August slipped away into a moment in time,” we are reminded to embrace these final few weeks of warm weather and longer days before sweater weather sets in. We suggest a road trip to the Door County region in Wisconsin for some lasting memories. The destination is a five-hour drive from the Twin Cities east across Wisconsin or a quick commercial flight into Green Bay or Appleton. We also once flew a private plane to the area, landing at Door County Cherryland Airport in Sturgeon Bay.
Door County is a 70-mile peninsula between Green Bay and Lake Michigan with 300 miles of shoreline that rivals Minnesota’s North Shore for its lake life charm and water activities. The region features five state parks, 19 county parks, 34 islands, and nearly 20 distinct communities that span Sturgeon Bay in the south to Washington Island at the northern tip, and tiny Rock Island State Park beyond that. Both islands are only accessible by ferry or boat, but a driving tour on the mainland is about 90 minutes end to end, with some considerable traffic backups during the busy season. During a four-day hosted trip to the region earlier this summer and a few previous visits, we suggest these highlights for a summer’s last hurrah.
LOOKING FOR LIGHTHOUSES
Some visitors mistakenly think Door County is named because it’s an east entry point to the state of Wisconsin—a door—but the true origin of the name is from the French phase “port des morts” or “Death’s Door” referring to the dangerous shipping passage at the tip of the county. For decades the passage was the quickest route for ships sailing the Great Lakes to deliver goods to the shipyards in the area. Fur traders inhabited the area in the 1600s, and logging was a main industry in the mid-1800s. The Door County Maritime Museum is a must-visit for anyone wanting to understand the growth of the area or see the area by boat and hear the history with a two-hour boat ride with Shoreline Boat Tours.
To help guide the sailors, a series of lighthouses dot the peninsula and today there are still 11 historical lighthouses standing, several still operating. An itinerary to visit all 11 lighthouses is a smart way to visit the area, especially for maritime or architecture fans as many are open for tours and offer a rich history of the lighthouse keepers and significant storms.
Amy Nelson
One afternoon we zoomed around northern Door County’s significant lakeside shoreline on a rigid inflatable boat with Door County Adventure Rafting as Kenny Loggins’ song “Danger Zone” blasted our ears and water sprayed our faces. We pulled up to the more than 150-year-old Cana Island Lighthouse, considered the area’s most iconic lighthouse because of its 89-foot light tower that offers a magnificent view of Lake Michigan, and explored the structure from several angles.
Then we skimmed the shore of the privately-owned Baileys Harbor Birdcage Lighthouse, named for its unique design that resembles a bird cage with a patina copper dome. Another day, we walked to the two Baileys Harbor Range Lights that line up to provide directional assistance during a tour of Ridges Sanctuary and celebrated a summer evening outside Eagle Bluff Lighthouse inside Peninsula State Park. We also spent an afternoon on remote Rock Island State Park, accessible only by boat, which we boarded on Washington Island (which in itself is only accessible by ferry from the Door County mainland). There, we toured the Pottawatomie Lighthouse, which is also known as the Rock Island Lighthouse, said to be the oldest light station in Wisconsin and on Lake Michigan, dating from 1836.
SPOTTING SHIPWRECKS
Despite those beacons guiding the sailors and boat captains, there are more than 240 shipwrecks in the bodies of water around the county. Just like the famous lighthouses, a tour of some of the well-known shipwrecks is a great way to see the area—by canoe, kayak, diving, snorkeling, or boat ride. Door County Kayak Tours is one of several outfitters that offers a kayak shipwreck tour, while Door County Adventure Rafting helped us see the sites by boat. We floated over some of the wooden schooners that sank in the shallow waters near Baileys Harbor and also circled around an abandoned tugboat named the Donny S that was abandoned in 2021. While technically not a shipwreck, the stuck tugboat has flummoxed officials for a few years.
EXPLORE NATURE
Yes, the two bodies of water are the stars in Door County, and make for spectacular sunrises and sunsets. But there are plenty of other activities to enjoy the scenic beauty of the area. Residents are proud of the natural resources and help operate or volunteer at a number of nature-related facilities. Crossroads at Big Creek in Sturgeon Bay is a 200-acre nature preserve and learning center with an environmental stewardship as its mission. The grounds include an all-season trail system for hiking, skiing, birding, and other recreational activities and we spent a steamy afternoon walking some of the trails.
Amy Nelson
A different day, we saw a variety of orchids and heard about a special emerald dragonfly at Ridges Sanctuary in Baileys Harbor. As Wisconsin’s oldest nonprofit nature preserve and an Audubon Important Bird Area, the center has more than 1,700 preserved acres. While we were exploring, employees were testing out the center’s new all-terrain track chairs for people with mobility issues along the wooden boardwalk and other officials were marking land to break ground for a new pre-school set to open next year.
With two dozen parks, Door County is an outdoor enthusiast’s dream. Peninsula State Park is one our favorites to hike, bike, and camp in. The 3,776-acre state park has rocky bluffs that are more than 150 feet high that had us huffing and puffing during a hike on a previous visit. The 60-foot Eagle Tower offers amazing views of the county as well and is Wisconsin’s first accessible observation tower with its 850-foot ramp. We suggest climbing up the ramp side and descending by using the stairwell with 95 steps.
Amy Nelson
A different day we toured Whitefish Dunes State Park and Cave Point County Park via e-bikes with Door County Kayak Tours. The zippy e-bikes were a blast and we were able to cover a lot of ground while enjoying some exercise. We parked the bikes near Cave Point’s limestone sea caves to peer into the impressive hollowed-out formations and watch a few brave souls jump into the water about 10 feet below.
DINE AND SHOP
All the time on the water and outdoors made us hungry at the end of each day, and Door County offers a wide selection places to eat and drink. Of course, there’s the famous Al Johnson’s Swedish Restaurant with the live goats that graze on the institution’s grass rooftop. Renard’s Cheese shop is a must-stop for dairy goodness and Door County also is known for its unique fish boils. During an earlier visit, I learned about fish boils (instead of fish frys)—a tradition started more than 100 years ago when Scandinavians settled in the area and used the method to feed large groups of workers. At the Old Post Office Restaurant during one visit, we sat outside around an oversized kettle of boiling water as the boil master tended the fire underneath, told us the origin of fish boils and the process, and added the whitefish, potatoes, onions, and salt to the black cauldron. With a fiery flourish, the boil master finishes the meal with a splash of kerosene, which burns off but causes the kettle to boil over and splash the area. After that show, we ate the fish at tables inside the restaurant.
Door County is also home to a number of well-curated clothing boutiques and gift shops. It’s also a haven for artists of all varieties, and galleries and studios are scattered everywhere. Shop for glass goods, fabric art, jewelry, and fine art throughout the county. And for a relaxing and wonderful-smelling excursion, head to Fragrant Isle Lavender Farm and Shop on Washington Island to walk through acres of the purple plant that blows in the breeze.
For lodging—like dining—the variety is impressive. There’s rugged camping or glamping at many of the parks, upscale inns and family-run resorts, and hotel chains for those who like consistency in their places to stay.
Don’t let summer slip away like it does in the song before one final pleasant getaway.
