On a weekend in late June, when the city heat was stifling, my husband and I went up north—not up to Minnesota’s North Shore or Big Woods, but to a spot on Lake Superior’s southern shore that has a sparkle all its own.
Bayfield, Wisconsin, is just about the state’s northernmost point—that honor technically belongs to the Apostle Islands, just offshore. But Bayfield’s latitude and topography meant it was twenty degrees cooler than the Twin Cities, with fresh gusts off the bay and plentiful sunshine.
And about three minutes outside of town, an oasis waits in the woods. Wild Rice Retreat, which celebrates its fifth anniversary this year, is a wellness seeker’s paradise, with every element of the resort focused on movement, good nutrition, and rest. Founder Heidi Zimmer opened the retreat in 2021; the property had been the former home of Wild Rice Restaurant, an acclaimed eatery with James Beard accolades that closed in 2018. The original restaurant building has been turned into the current retreat center—and a commitment to good, seasonal food persists.Â
Zimmer, who lives part time in the Twin Cities, says Bayfield speaks to her in a way other lakeside enclaves don’t. “We have real beaches,” she says. “The water is swimmable, and it gets warmer here by August because we’re in the bay. I grew up in Michigan, so I was used to kind of an East Coast seaport feeling. I loved the North Shore, but when I got to Bayfield, energetically, it felt more familiar to me.”Â
When we arrived at the resort, we checked in and were given a quick tour of the bar (where buffet-style meals are served three times a day), the dining area overlooking Lake Superior, and the great room, where yoga, art, and other classes and workshops happen each day.
Courtesy of Wild Rice Retreat
Then, we headed down the path to our RicePod—one of the retreat’s efficient, stand-alone cabins. At just over 300 square feet, the pod was tiny but felt luxe, with Scandinavian-inspired design touches everywhere. A neat kitchenette was just inside the door to the left (complete with a French press and Wisconsin-roasted beans from Wonderstate), and a bathroom on the right, with a rain showerhead and fluffy towels. Our pod slept two on a queen bed; there was also a comfortable reading chair and a small table. Larger Nest units sleep up to four and have separate living and sleeping areas.
The RicePods and Nests (plus the retreat’s Treehaus rooms, which are private suites in a larger, shared lodging) all boast oversized windows on every side, offering views of the wildflower-covered hillsides and wooded paths that hug the bluffs overlooking the lake—plus lots of natural light. We kept the screened windows open in our cabin all weekend, letting in sparrow songs, bumblebee hums, and cool nighttime air.
On our first evening, we walked to the main resort building for dinner: almond-crusted trout, steak and blue cheese flatbread, salad, scratch-made bread, fresh potato salad, and brownies. The buffet—primarily plant-based with at least one “fauna” offering—changes daily with locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. Water, coffee, and tea are available all day, while beer, wine, and house-made nonalcoholic cocktails, including a fresh blackberry basil lemonade, are available for purchase.
Courtesy of Wild Rice Retreat
In addition to dinner, the bar opens for a daily light breakfast (typically yogurt, granola, fresh fruit, and breads for toasting) and a heartier brunch from 10 a.m. to noon. Some of our favorite brunch dishes during our stay included a warm egg scramble with turmeric and apples, fresh blueberry scones with rhubarb compote, and a rainbow of roasted veggies.
Next, we stopped at Wild Rice Retreat’s on-site Sanctuary, home to a traditional Scandinavian cedar sauna and rain shower. Thoughtful touches include spa robes, extra towels, cool water, and an outdoor cold plunge experience. Afterward, we hiked along the bluff overlooking Lake Superior. The resort’s wooded trails connect to the Brownstone Trail, an easy 1.5-mile route into downtown Bayfield.
The next morning, I attended a restorative yoga class in the retreat center. The atmosphere was friendly and low-pressure; a few people chatted while we set up, and the instructor, Adge Marz, offered praise and helpful tips while she incorporated several tai chi movements into the day’s yoga flow. Marz also teaches aerial classes at Wild Rice (“There’s still room in the afternoon class!” she offered gamely). I’d forgotten my own yoga mat, but that was OK—the retreat stocks the room with mats, blocks, bolsters, and all kinds of other touches for a seamless experience. If the weather is nice, classes are sometimes held on the adjoining deck in the fresh air.
Guests can choose from yoga, intention-setting, art workshops, labyrinth walks, guided sauna sessions, and outdoor classes such as medicinal foraging or Ojibwe storytelling led by teachers from the nearby Bad River Reservation
Before I knew it, the weekend was over. But the slower pace, intentional movement, and delicious flavors of the retreat stayed with me—not to mention the total immersion in Bayfield’s beautiful woods. That’s what Zimmer says keeps drawing guests from all over the country. “It’s a different climate here that’s really cool,” she says. In fact, the retreat launched a new project earlier this year: A small neighborhood of year-round homes right on-site that will include access to the retreat’s amenities—so you’d never really need to leave vacation.
