Photo by Midwest Dairy
Deep within the Dairy Building, at the corner of Judson Avenue and Underwood Street, one of the Minnesota State Fair’s most beloved traditions unfolds each summer. Sponsored by nearly 1,800 dedicated Minnesota dairy farmers, the butter booth remains a marvel of Midwest pageantry, where Princess Kay of the Milky Way is immortalized in 90 pounds of premium Grade AA butter.
Inside a brisk, 40-degree, energy-efficient rotating booth, Minnesota native Gerry Kulzer transforms young agricultural ambassadors into striking three-dimensional portraits. The tradition represents a unique collision of dairy heritage and artistic precision, celebrating both Minnesota’s reputation as the butter capital of the nation and the young women who serve as ambassadors for dairy farming, environmental stewardship, and nutrition.
Kulzer assumed the role of official butter sculptor in 2022, succeeding Linda Christensen, who held the position for an extraordinary 50 years. Today, he expertly translates portraits of these agricultural leaders into works of art, capturing their unique personalities in a medium that is as iconic as it is perishable.
At the center of the tradition is Princess Kay of the Milky Way. During the first two days of the fair, the newly crowned Princess Kay and her fellow finalists sit for hours as their likenesses are sculpted before crowds of fascinated fairgoers. Since 1954, more than 800 young women have participated in the program, serving as goodwill ambassadors for Minnesota’s dairy industry.
Every sculpture begins with a 90-pound block of pure Grade AA butter produced exclusively for the event by Associated Milk Producers Inc. in New Ulm. Creating the sculpting medium itself requires an astonishing amount of local resources—roughly 2.5 gallons of whole milk, or about 21.6 pounds, for every pound of butter.
While butter displays at the fair date back to 1898, the tradition of sculpting dairy royalty officially began in 1965. Today, the portraits are crafted inside the modern rotating booth unveiled in 2008, ensuring the nostalgic tradition continues to delight new generations of fairgoers.
The process requires both patience and endurance. The booth remains at a chilly 40°F, and each sculpture takes approximately six hours to complete. Despite relying on modern equipment, the art form itself traces its roots back to the Midwest frontier, when resourceful women molded and decorated homemade butter for family tables in the 1800s.
“As the State Fair Butter Sculptor of Princess Kay and the finalists, I hope to bring a little joy to fairgoers as they watch in wonder at this time-honored Minnesota tradition,” Kulzer says. “I never forget that we’re doing this to bring recognition to our state’s tireless farming community, who work hard every day to produce milk for staple foods like cheese, yogurt, ice cream, and, of course, butter.”
For those who step into the Dairy Building each August, the sculptures represent more than a fair attraction. They are a tribute to the people behind Minnesota agriculture and a celebration of a tradition that continues to connect generations.
“It was a surreal moment when I stepped into the butter booth and looked out into the crowd,” says 2025 Princess Kay of the Milky Way Malorie Thorson. “My dream of representing dairy farmers as Princess Kay had come true, and I had the honor of having my likeness sculpted in butter. It’s an iconic and
genuinely Minnesota tradition. The dedication to this art mirrors the hard work, pride, and spirit of Minnesota farm families.”
