What’s Up
As I walked across The Cabana Club’s sun-drenched riverside patio in late June, set against the romantic backdrop of Saint Anthony Main’s cobblestoned streets, I felt like I was no longer in Minneapolis. Tiki-style straw umbrellas lined the string-lit patio; vibrant, exotic plant life flourished across the light-toned interior; and globally inspired dishes ranging from spicy Vietnamese pho to delicate, Hawaiian-style Mahi Mahi decorated the wooden dining tables—was I on an island in the Caribbean, beachside in south Asia, or parked at a seaside spritz bar in Europe? According to sommelier and part-owner Krista Johson, the correct answer is, all three. A global dining concept inspired by its owners’ love for travel, Cabana Club is a labor of love conceived by a dynamic trio of industry veterans—Johnson, her partner and executive chef Charlie Gibbs, and their good friend and operations director Jay Viskocil—all of whom used to work together at now-neighbors Aster House and Jefe Urban Cocina. Occupying the historical building that was once Vic’s Restaurant, the space feels fresh and reimagined, whisking visitors into a paradisical escape that echoes the passion of its creators.
Side Dish
Our drinks were the precursor to the colorful, exotic journey our four courses would soon lead us on. Bright pink and garnished with a fresh strawberry, the Beverly Hills was an Italian inspired concoction of vodka, Sicilian amaro, strawberry and lemon, and a surprisingly delicious dose of balsamic. For starters, we savored the Chicken Skewers—served on a pointed blade of lemongrass (a touch Gibbs picked up on a recent trip to Vietnam) and accompanied by a light and savory peanut sauce—and the bright and citrusy Seabass Crudo, a bold marriage of South American flavors. The owners’ trip to Vietnam (where they underwent a traditional cooking course) was proven to pay off when I sampled the rich and brothy Brisket Pho, a medley of bold spices and tender, melt-in-your-mouth meat. To round out our international tour, we journeyed to the Carribean with the divine Jerk Chicken, accompanied by smashed yuca and mojo de ajo, and finally, to Italy with the herby Wild Mushroom Fettuccine, a harmonious balance of punchy Calabrian chiles and smooth morel-porcini cream. Yes, we were full.
Photo by Lauren Cutshall
Where It’s At
Cabana Club’s distinct personality, which can only be accredited to its dedicated ownership, practically leaps off the walls. Every detail, from the red-lit, bamboo-paneled bar to the glossy wooden dining tables, was diligently executed by the trio themselves. “Charlie’s brother made the tables,” Johnson reveals, “he just happened to have a bunch of wood in his backyard in Wisconsin.” Viskocil and Johnson picked out each and every plant—down to the hanging succulents that cascade from the back of the bar—while Gibbs refines his craft by making everything from scratch and in-house. “This is and will remain our only restaurant,” Johnson shares. “We just want to be fully here and put everything we have into doing it really well.” From where I was sitting that sunny June day, it appeared to be paying off.
201 SE Main St., Minneapolis, cabanaclubmpls.com
