An all-day diner and bar just on the south side of the Mendota Bridge, The Copperfield has a built-in audience, as it sits on the ground level of a gleaming new senior living complex. Honestly, this place looks great, and what a treat for a community with a lack of independent restaurants.
No, the food isn’t served with a side of Jell-O (haha, senior living center joke), but sadly, some of the dishes we tried leaned snooze-inducingly bland.
Calamari is hand-battered, delicately fried, and avoids the rubbery, overdone consistency we sometimes see. (Is calamari making a return to menus? I know it’s never gone out of style in some corners!)
The combo of mejdool dates and nicely marinated beef in an appetizer of skewered brochettes was a welcome surprise, as was the emphasis on local ham and turkey in the solid club sandwich.
But the beets salad was a bore, and even our server told us none of the entrees really excited her.
The pasty had a lovely buttery crust, but the filling had no depth, nothing but a mouthful of dull ground beef.
But if you stick with the appetizers and the sandwiches, you’ll be in good shape. The burger was nicely cooked and smothered in cheese.
Frankly, the welcoming service was the best part of what is certain to be a neighborhood favorite. Many staff members are veterans of The Lexington in St. Paul.
735 Maple St., Mendota Heights, 651-340-5144, thecopperfieldmn.com
