Why not a duel? This week, Minnesota Monthly’s style editor Emma Enebak and food editor Jason DeRusha, along with a roomful of other reporters, critics, writers, and influencers, experienced the newest version of the signature tasting menu at Travail Kitchen and Amusements in Robbinsdale. Here’s how it worked: Three teams of chef duos created their own four-course menus and then diners voted on their favorite appetizers, mid-courses, main courses, and desserts. In between, there were games (Jason won the beer chugging contest, to no one’s surprise), amusing emcee speeches (shoutout to “the wine guy”), and a mad dash of guests running through the dining room to enjoy “The Office” themed experience in the basement bar. From food to atmosphere to design, Emma and Jason chat about their thoughts on the experience.
Photo by Emma Enebak
JASON: For me Travail has often struggled to have the right balance of silly and serious, frivolity and technique, ambition and deliciousness.
EMMA: This was my first time dining at Travail. I’ve heard great reviews about the food itself, but wasn’t prepared for the wild, comedic atmosphere. They definitely don’t take themselves too seriously, which was refreshing and, in my opinion, made the food taste even better.
JASON: They nailed it for me. This was fun, and out of 12 dishes I had favorites—but nothing was a miss.
EMMA: Agreed. One chef duo definitely stood out to me as far as creativity and risk-taking, but every single dish was incredible.
JASON: This was your first time at Travail—but not your first time having a fine dining tasting menu?
EMMA: The only other time I’ve had a tasting menu of this caliber was on a trip to France a few summers ago. Never in the Twin Cities though—it was fun to try something completely different.
JASON: We both had the wine pairing—for me it always is so fast! They drop three small pours for each round—but ‘the wine guy’ (Evan Kennedy, the wine assistant at Travail) was brilliant at quickly and clearly explaining it.
Photo by Emma Enebak
EMMA: Agreed. My roommates and I actually put in a good word for ‘the wine guy’ on the voting form. He was very knowledgeable, and helped us pick up on the enhanced flavors brought out by the pairings—which isn’t always obvious.
JASON: Ha! I put in a good word for him too! OK, You’re the style expert—what did you think of the design of the place?
EMMA: It was very sleek and modern, with a satisfying contrast of dark tones and natural elements brought in by the tall windows and birchwood ceilings. I definitely picked up on some Scandi design inspiration, rather it was intentional or not. It felt like it was going to be a very posh, serious atmosphere, when in fact, it was the complete opposite.
Photo by Emma Enebak
JASON: I love that the design asks that question: Can you be serious and silly at the same time? The answer is yes—which is also my life ethos! The beauty of the voting concept is that chefs get real-time feedback on their dishes. It was hard to pick—do you assign ‘degree of difficulty?’
EMMA: Personally, I judged based on both taste and creativity. I think there are certain staples that are always going to be delicious—like the Nashville hot chicken or the slice of freshly baked focaccia bread. But when a chef takes something strange and unexpected—like a doughnut hole filled with duck meat—and makes it taste incredible, that’s when I’m truly impressed.
Photo by Emma Enebak
JASON: I’m old enough to remember the original Travail location, and I do think this iteration really recaptures that spirit. It goes to exactly what you’re talking about: Take risks, try things, take the craft seriously, but don’t take yourself so seriously. Be strange! Be unexpected!
EMMA: That’s definitely what I picked up on throughout the experience. Everyone who works there just seemed like they were having a good time, and you could tell that the chefs were truly passionate about pushing boundaries and perfecting their craft. It was so nice to meet co-founder Chef Mike Brown too, and hear a bit of his story. In his words, Travail was once a ‘garage band-style startup that no one really cared about.’ It seems like the garage band spirit never really left them—in a good way.
EMMA: So, Jason, you’re the food critic—what was your favorite dish overall?
JASON: I know we were both impressed by the chef flexing as he did his best Salt Bae impression, dropping salt flakes onto a beef bavette. Perhaps for different reasons, though.
EMMA: Yeah, that definitely earned him extra points for presentation—and enthusiasm. What made it even better is how delicious the beef bavette was. And I’m not normally a red meat person.
Photo by Emma Enebak
JASON: I’m still thinking about the salmon escabeche on focaccia. The ‘Meatheads’ team created aromatics and oil, put that into the cavity where you’d normally see bone marrow, then used a blow torch to melt onto the bread. Great theatrics and fabulous flavor.
EMMA: I loved that dish as well, it was hard for me to decide between that and the cabbage roll with Chinese sausage. In the end, I voted for the ‘Freebirds’ for every round—they really impressed me with the Cachapas, which featured braised pork on a delicious corn ‘pancake’ of sorts (apparently inspired by Taco Bell). And their rum cake with the coconut whip…unexpected and so well-presented, something the duo describes as ‘a dish with whimsy.’ That definitely secured their overall vote for me.
Photo by Jason DeRusha
