Now Open: Xelas by El Sazon in Stillwater

Smoky spices, bold flavors, and salsas shine at the new Mayan-focused eatery

We all have our flavor biases—and I am absolutely in the tank for the spices, braises, tastes and textures of Mexico. We also have our people biases—and I am absolutely in the tank for the amazing love story of Cristian and Karen de Leon. So it’s no surprise that I am enchanted by the possibilities of Xelas by El Sazon, now open along Highway 36 in Stillwater.

You may know the de Leons’ story: They met while working at separate restaurants at Mall of America, scraped together enough money to open El Sazon Tacos & More inside a gas station in Eagan, expanded into a South Minneapolis restaurant, and are now taking on the east metro with a Mayan-focused restaurant in Stillwater. Karen told me she was nervous at first looking at real estate right next to Mexican stalwart Acapulco, but the food and the vibe is totally different.

So what is Mayan-focused cuisine? Think plated proteins like cochinita pibil—pork shank smothered in achiote and slowly braised. Smoky spices, bold flavors, and the salsas and sauces are really the main show here. We loved the Hilachas short rib braised in a tomato and chile guaque demi-glace ($24). And the caldo de res ($22)! Wow—a beautiful beef and vegetable soup de Leon is serving with a giant, stunning bone marrow.

You’ll love the starters: the salbute puffed tortilla with an earthy, savory picadillo of chopped bison and potatoes ($16). And the pork belly on lovely crispy yuca medallions with chicarron crumbles was fabulous.

The Twin Cities’ Latino cocktail community is also flexing big time at Xelas—some of the most exciting creativity is coming from a core of bartenders who have worked together, collaborated on pop-ups, and have really elevated the artistry of unique spirits. Zoilo Ruacho-Marquez, originally from Durango, Mexico—and Danny Torres was hired away from Iconos Bar Cantina to run the team in Stillwater.

Xelas has tons of Mexican spirits, including some unique rums and gins I don’t see too often in local bars. Torres created the oro verde—an avocado-based cocktail with Diega gin—which is earthy and savory and luscious. Ruacho-Marquez is responsible for Sak Ik—a fascinating rum drink with pumpkin seed notes, so it’s bright, nutty, citrusy. Both are $14.

There’s lots of Latino art on the walls of the former Thai Basil space, and plenty of parking as well.

Xelas by El Sazon, 1180 W. Frontage Road, Stillwater, elsazonmn.com