No, they’re not doing Tavern on Grand’s Walleye. How could they? No one would be happy!
But you should be happy with the new Russell’s, which opened today in Tavern on Grand’s former iconic Grand Avenue location. And while the interior and the kitchen has been totally renovated and refreshed, there is still a nod to the previous restaurant with a twist: Walleye Nachos.
Surprisingly delicious: tortilla strips, walleye bathed in a red salsa, and avocado mousse. There is a walleye entree too, but they call it “Walleye Ritsy” because it’s crusted in Ritz crackers. Everything on Russell’s’ menu is comfort food, slightly elevated, slightly different, but extremely comfortable and built for success.
We enjoyed the dry rub chicken wings and tuna tartare on the small plates menu, and the smoked chicken, apple, and cranberry salad was delightful too. The NY Strip steak was perfectly cooked and a bargain at $40, you can see the skill of Chef Antonio Murray, formerly of The Lexington right up the street.
Photo by Jason DeRusha
Owner Todd Russell says he owes his success in commercial real estate to growing up on Grand Avenue. “We couldn’t afford to go to all the stores back in the day, but I was exposed to it, and it sparked my imagination,” he said. Russell built a career in commercial real estate, helping clients figure out the tenant mix in their newly constructed developments. It’s the perfect 651 story: St. Paul kid finds success and comes home.
For non-drinkers, you’ll be impressed with the “I’m Driving” part of the bar selection—nearly a dozen mocktails, NA wines, and beers. We enjoyed the “No Regrets,” a tart blackberry drink. There’s a Rosemary Paloma on the fully-leaded cocktail menu, and a correlating NA version. Pretty cool.
We talked quite a bit about the Avenue, which has suffered from competing narratives post-COVID. On one hand, we’ve seen a bit of an exodus of national retail brands, and a handful of larger restaurant spaces have struggled to find new tenants (like the former Salut). At the same time, Cafe Latte is thriving, as is Golden Fig, Hyacinth, Red Rabbit, Emmett’s Public House, and Saji-Ya, with a new bread/sandwich/wine cafe Ravaza Bread coming soon. But the Avenue needs some juice—and this opening might help change the narrative. It’s still one of the coolest retail spaces in the state, and I am one of many cheering it, and Todd Russell, on.
Russell’s, 656 Grand Ave., St. Paul. Open Tuesday-Sunday, 3 p.m.-11 p.m. russellsstpaul.com
